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South
Coast
While
Negril gets the crowds, the South Coast of Jamaica
has only recently begun to attract visitors.
The Arawak once lived in sylvan simplicity along
these shores before their civilization was destroyed.
Early Spanish settlers came here searching for
gold; today's traveler comes looking for the
untrammeled sands of its secluded beaches. Fishermen
still sell their catch at colorful local markets,
and the prices, as they say here, are "the
way they used to be" in Jamaica.
Most
visitors here come east from Negril through
Savanna-la-Mar to the high-country, British-style
town of Mandeville, then on to a boat tour up
the Black River, home of freshwater crocodiles.
(Those with more time hit Treasure Beach first
before going on to Mandeville.)
The
area attracts an adventure-oriented visitor
who doesn't want to be picked up in a minivan
and hauled to an all-inclusive hotel behind
a guarded compound with canned entertainment.
It's a sleepy place devoid of duty-free stores,
musicians in yellow shirts singing "Yellow
Bird," and toga parties. Instead of air-conditioning,
you get mosquito nets and ceiling fans.
Yet
the beaches here are the equal of those of Montego
Bay or Ocho Rios. Restaurants, for the most
part, are of the sort you'd have found along
the roadside in Jamaica in the 1950s-and some
of them are still charging 1950s prices. Local
lifestyles, too, remain mostly unchanged by
time.
This
last frontier of Jamaica will no doubt be invaded
by tourism within the next decade or so. But
for now it appears, at least in its more remote
parts, a sleepy dream from long ago.
The
South Coast
Think of this as the undiscovered Jamaica, though
the region is beginning to attract more visitors
every year; they're drawn by Jamaica's sunniest
climate.
Local
adventures are plentiful on the South Coast.
Among the most popular is a boat tour up the
Black River, once a major logging conduit. Another
favorite is the trip to the Y. S. Falls, where
seven spectacular cascades tumble over rocks
in the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains,
just north of the town of Middle Quarters.
Charms
of this Region
Peppered
Shrimp
Tantalize your taste buds with these scotch-bonnet
hot South Coast delicacies.
Black
River
Take a boat ride up the meandering Black River,
past sultry crocodiles and through mysterious
mangroves.
Treasure
Beach
Although there’s no pirate’s gold
hidden on these sparkling black sand bays, you’ll
surely take home a treasure chest of memories.
YS
Tiers of cascading water in a rainforest of
possibilities. Rope-swing over the calming cool
waters. Let go and plunge into bliss.
Appleton
Where our rum comes from! An intoxicating tour
through the headquarters of Jamaican rum heightens
your appreciation of our flavourful elixir.
Bird
Watching
South Coast’s quiet shores and verdant
highlands are perfect for viewing Jamaica’s
colourful collection of tropical birds.
Lovers
Leap
The view surrounds you. Take it all in with
the one you love, the sweeping Pedro Bluff,
the jagged shoreline of Cutlass Bay, and miles
of the bluest sea.
Little
Ochie
Beneath thatch roofs far from it all, enjoy
the big taste of mouth-watering seafood cooked
any way you like it…
Milk
River
Recharge your batteries and soak your troubles
away in the invigorating, curative waters of
Milk River Bath.
Bamboo
Ave
Drive through nature’s perfect archway,
leading you from one South Coast adventure to
the next.
Alley
General History: Deep in the
central sugar-producing regions of the Clarendon
plains is the small village of Alley, a tiny
community at times dwarfed by the towering sugar
cane stalks of the Moneymusk Estate. Since the
seventeenth century, Alley has been an important
sugar village, located in the heart of the Clarendon
sugar belt and closely associated with the neighbouring
Moneymusk Sugar Estate. As the capital of the
parish formerly known as Vere, Alley is home
to one of the oldest churches in Jamaica, St
Peter’s Anglican Church. Built in 1671,
the church is a modest red brick structure set
within a brick-walled churchyard surrounded
by enormous cotton trees estimated to be hundreds
of years old. Every Sunday, the three-quarter
ton cast-iron church bell calls the faithful
to worship, and within the church, one of the
oldest pipe organs in the Caribbean still plays
in tune. St Peter’s is a National Heritage
Site, both for the building itself and the churchyard,
where there are many old tombstones and monuments
to early English settlers.
A
short distance away from the church in the district
of Amity Hall, still in the heart of cane country,
is another curious and historic structure, the
old Moneymusk windmill, now the Moneymusk Library.
The sugar works at Amity Hall was the centre
of operations of the estate for over a century
before the newer, more modern factory was built
a number of kilometres away from the old site.
Although
today the larger community of Lionel Town has
overshadowed Alley’s importance, the village
is still a significant reservoir of Jamaican
heritage and history.
Interesting Story: The church
bell at St Peter’s Anglican Church in
Alley weighs approximately three quarters of
a ton and is solid cast iron. Brought to Jamaica
from London in 1857, the bell, which still tolls
on Sunday mornings and on special occasions,
was crafted by the same company that created
London’s most famous landmark, ‘Big
Ben’.
Famous For: Alley, like many
other rural villages in southern Clarendon,
is surrounded by the vast cane fields of the
Moneymusk Estate, one of the largest sugar-producing
operations in Jamaica. The area is particularly
fertile, being naturally irrigated by the many
tributaries of the Milk River and the Rio Minho.
Must See: St Peter’s
Church is certainly worth a stop, but do also
stop at the Moneymusk Library in nearby Amity
Hall. The library is located within a brick
windmill that was once the centre of the sugar
factory works. This is the only brick windmill
in Jamaica – all other windmills were
made of locally quarried limestone. To date,
historians are still trying to understand why
the owners of the estate put themselves to such
great expense to import bricks from England,
but in the meanwhile, the building is open to
the public, allowing passers-by to make their
own estimations.
Alligator
Pond
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General
History: Manchester is generally
thought of in terms of its cooler climes
and mountainous landscape, making the
hot, slightly humid fishing village of
Alligator Pond at the southwestern corner
of the parish almost seem like a different
country. |
In this humble community, proud home of one
of the longest fishing beaches in Jamaica, the
catch is always plentiful, smiles are always
bright, and there are countless places to have
a delicious meal prepared.
Alligator
Pond is a haven for seafood lovers, and most
of the fish consumed in the parish comes is
caught here. Every afternoon, droves of anxious
consumers stand on the beach, waiting for the
fishermen to come in with the day's catch. At
‘Little Ochi’, possibly the oldest
and most famous restaurant in the area, patrons
enjoy fried fish and bammy, lobster and other
delicacies while sitting in canoes, raised on
stilts, under the cover of thatch roofs.
Rustic,
intimate, and slow-paced, Alligator Pond is
a delightful find, an unpretentious place, where
there is little to do but, according to one
resident, “go fish, come home, siddung,
drink rum and cuss bad word”.
One
thing for sure, do not show up expecting to
see alligators! There are no alligators anywhere
in Jamaica and none in the surrounding waters
either. Crocodiles, however, are endemic to
Jamaica, and although none have been seen in
the Alligator Pond region recently, there are
many in the area, which suggests, that at some
point in time, there were crocs in the village.
Local
lore has it that the village was named Alligator
Pond because the hill overlooking the community
was shaped like the snout of a crocodile, mistakenly
called an alligator. The pond part of the name
comes from an area of low-lying land that in
times of heavy rains collects water which settles
for as long as a few months, creating a small
freshwater pool in the shadow of the hill.
Famous For: Alligator Pond
is the hippest place in Jamaica to procure all
sorts of seafood – cooked or uncooked.
Usually the best selections are bought at the
morning fish market, where patrons can buy the
first catch of the day out of the boats of fishermen
coming in from sea.
Must See: If you stop in Alligator
Pond, hail up "Blacka", the operator
of Little Ochi Restaurant, is a fixture in the
small village and a man with a vision for his
community. His restaurant has managed to place
the community and the South Coast on the map
as a place where Jamaicans and tourists alike
can share in delectable treats in a rustic,
organic setting.
Black
River
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General
History: The capital of the parish
of St. Elizabeth, Black River is named after
the river that runs through the parish and
enters the sea at the southernmost section
of the town. Originally called Rio Caobana
by the Spanish, the river was once a busy
waterway and the primary trade route for
sugar and logwood destined for markets outside
of Jamaica. |
In
the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the
port at Black River was generally regarded as
one of the most important ports on the island.
As both logwood and sugar declined in importance
as Jamaican exports, the once thriving port
town became increasingly lax economically, although
today it still is one of the most important
towns in the southwest section of the island.
The
river itself, the longest in Jamaica, winding
forty-four miles from the interior to the coast,
was used primarily for transporting logwood
from the hills of the parish where it was cut
to the port of Black River from where it was
shipped. Black River's heyday lasted until the
logwood industry died, but not before the town
of Black River achieved distinction as the first
town in Jamaica to receive electricity.
Now
the river, which begins in the Cockpit Country
as Hector's River and surfaces and disappears
at will, is used primarily for shrimping and
eco-tourism. From the Black River town end,
there are a number of safari operators that
for a small fee will take you on a tour of the
lower river delta and the Great Morass. The
mangroves (swamp areas named after the tropical
trees which grow in the swamp mud) along the
river are home to a wealth of species of plant
and animal life.
The
most captivating animals to call the Black River
home are the Crocodylus acutus, commonly known
as the American Crocodile. Once these magnificent
creatures dominated the river, but were hunted
almost to extinction for their high-quality
skin, used to make purses, belts and other fashion
accessories. Now crocodiles are a protected
species under Jamaican law, which makes it illegal
to hunt or kill them.
A
great way to get up close but not so personal
with these reptiles is to join one of the motorboat
safaris up the river. These tour operators are
so familiar with the river and the crocs that
they know their territories, mating schedules
and have even given some of them names!
An
old spa to the west of the town, up until the
1930s was very trendy, and was even a favourite
of King Leopold of Belgium. There are hopes
that the spa will be revived in the future.
Interesting Story: Waterloo,
the house at 44 High Street was the first building
in Jamaica to be powered by electricity. Mr.
John Leyden built the elegant townhouse in 1875
when the town of Black River was in its zenith
as a successful port and a primary economic
centre of the island. Leyden, it is said, wired
the house to the electricity plant situated
at "York Terrace" (now called School
Street) because he needed to run an air conditioner
for his stabled racehorses. The plant was run
from steam generated by burning logwood cut
from the interior. The Leydens supplied the
whole town with electricity, which at the time
made it the talk of the island.
Black
River, however, suffered a massive blow when
the Leydens ran out of money and closed the
business, because then the lights went out.
The lights stayed out until 1936, when another
company came into town, providing the town with
electricity harnessed from the hydroelectric
plant in Maggotty, several miles north of the
town. In any case, today the house that still
remains at 44 High Street has electricity, and
is a remarkable symbol of the country's colonial
heritage, and of Black River's former glory.
Famous For: The Black River/lower
Morass area had at the last count, more than
300 American Crocodiles which live predominantly
in the Black River itself. Although those who
live in the area claim that the crocs only attack
humans during mating season or when their territory
is threatened, swimming in the river is NOT
recommended. Swimming in the river is not necessary
either; everything there is to see can be observed
from on board one of the safari boats, which
is many, many times safer!
Must See: On the surface of
the river itself, look out for bladderwort,
a plant that baits small animals, traps them
and then eats them after they suffocate or die
of lack of food. Bladderwort uses a special
type of mucous to attract its prey, which then
swims into its path and is devoured by the plant.
Jamaican folk legend maintains that bladderwort
has healing properties and is a useful salve
for many common ailments.
Say
Hello To: Mr. Lloyd Linton, Aquatic
Ecologist, Marine Biologist and expert in coastal
zone management is an expert on Black River.
Mr. Linton has been instrumental in researching
and assembling information about the Black River
and the lower Morass and he is a wonderful resource
for all types of information about crocodiles,
the river and the flora and fauna found in the
surrounding area. Find him at the Irie Safari
office on the banks of the river beside the
Riverside Dock Restaurant.
Bluefields
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General
History: Bluefields is one of the
oldest settled areas in Jamaica, having
been the site of the third city built by
the Spanish on the island in the seventeenth
century. |
Oristan,
as the Spanish named it, was one of the largest
and most important towns to the Spanish, as
it provided a protected harbour and a source
of fresh water on Jamaica’s south coast,
both vital to the strategic defence of the early
Spanish colonies.
After
the expulsion of the Spanish by the British,
the city withered, but the bay was still used,
especially by pirates. The name ‘Bluefields’,
for instance, is derived from the infamous and
much-feared pirate Bleevelt, who also launched
attacks from the bay. Bluefields Bay gained
further notoriety in 1670 as the bay from which
the buccaneer Henry Morgan sailed to ransack
the city of Panama. Nowadays, the community
has managed to curb the piracy, although the
bay is still used by avid seafarers to launch
legitimate (albeit not as exciting) fishing
expeditions.
Since
the early days, Bluefields has been home to
some important names in Jamaican history. Phillip
Henry Gosse, naturalist, ornithologist, and
inventor of the marine aquarium lived and conducted
much of his research in the forests and wetlands
in the area, and international reggae artiste
Peter Tosh was born and raised in the small
village of Belmont. Tosh, who is known internationally
both for his association with Bob Marley and
for his militant anti-establishment lyrics,
died in 1987 and is buried in a small mausoleum
in his mother’s yard.
Despite
its intriguing history, most Jamaicans immediately
associate Bluefields with the pristine beach
set against verdant rolling hills, a popular
destination for locals, especially on public
holidays.
Interesting Story: The Bluefields
People’s Community Association is a not-for-profit
grassroots organization that sprung up in the
late 1980s. The organization, which has received
much international recognition, aims primarily
to promote sustainable social and economic development
for the people of Bluefields and surrounding
communities. The group fosters small business
and agricultural development programs that involve
trainings sessions and workshops open to all
members of the community.
The
achievements of the group are solid and self-evident;
the community centre, the success of workshop
graduates, and the conservation of the natural
environment in and around the area all stand
as testament to the idea that communities can,
with a little help, make a difference in their
own development.
Probably
the most impressive thing about the BPCA, however,
is the open-door policy, which allows any anyone
to offer or to receive assistance through the
organization. Over the years, volunteers from
around the world have come to Bluefields and
worked with Jamaicans to create and implement
community development structures, and the friendships
formed through these alliances have added much
value to a ‘real’ Jamaican experience.
Famous For: Bluefields Beach
Park is one of the most popular beaches among
Jamaicans. On weekends and public holidays,
the park comes alive with the delightful smells
and sounds of family picnics, with, of course,
reggae music playing in the background. The
beach itself is remarkable, and large enough
for everyone to enjoy his own space to relax
and socialize on the powdery-white sand or in
the clear warm water.
Must See: The small community
of Belmont falls in the Bluefields area, and
in a small yard off the main road is the Peter
Tosh Memorial. Peter Tosh, world-renowned Reggae
artist, outspoken and militant poet and songwriter
was one of the original Wailers who shared Bob
Marley's initial rise to fame. Tosh spend his
early years in the community before moving to
Trench Town in Kingston where he met Livingston
"Bunny" Wailer and Bob Marley, when
the three combined talents to form the Wailers.
His
mother and stepfather still share a humble house
a few chains behind the memorial, a small open
building containing Tosh's tomb and some memorabilia.
Unlike the Bob Marley Mausoleum in Nine Mile,
the Peter Tosh memorial is still relatively
unknown to all but serious fans, who gather
occasionally in the garden to reason, create,
or just to chat to the elderly but warm and
gracious Elvira Coke, Peter's mother.
Say
Hello To: Wolde Kristos is an extremely
outgoing young man with great dreams and the
drive to achieve them. He is a community activist
who works with the Bluefields People's Community
Association, organizing projects and securing
funding for the organization. Wolde has lived
in the Bluefields area all his life, and knows
almost everyone in the district, as well as
much of the history of the region. Stop in at
the BPCA office along the main road and ask
for him, he can also help to organize Volunteer/Working
holidays, home stays and small excursions into
the area.
Canoe
Valley
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General
History: Alligator Hole, a misnomer
for a small river with fascinating inhabitants,
is found within the Canoe Valley National
Nature Preserve, east of Alligator Pond,
along a rather revealing drive down a winding
coastal road with changing flora. |
The name Canoe Valley is said to have some relation
to indigenous Jamaicans, the Taino. About 600
years ago, the valley was heavily endowed with
cotton trees, used by the Amerindians to carve
canoes and other small craft.
The
Canoe Valley Park spans 3000 acres, and is made
up of mangrove swamps, limestone forests and
herbaceous forests. The whole valley occupies
approximately 5000 acres, and at last count
there were 4 amphibian species, 7 bat species,
23 reptile species and 93 avian species in the
area. The Alligator Hole River, created by rainfall
in the hills, runs underground for some of its
course, meandering through the valley, entering
the sea slightly south of Alligator Hole. The
water in the river at all points is slightly
salty, because it filters through limestone
bedrock, dissolving minerals along the way.
The river emerges from underground near Hillside
Bay at the base of Round Hill, and for its short
appearance above ground provides an excellent
habitat for both marine and freshwater animals
because of its salinity, supporting flora and
proximity to the sea.
At
Alligator Hole, the Natural Resources Conservation
Agency (NRCA) has developed an on-site mini-museum
and information centre to introduce visitors
to the numerous species of plant and animal
life present in the reserve. The river runs
below the level of the street, and there, if
you are lucky, you may get a rare glimpse of
one of three resident endangered Jamaican manatees
or "sea cow", which come to drink
the fresh water bubbling into the sea from underwater
springs.
Manatees
are large marine vegetarian mammals that live
primarily in shallow coastal waters and in brackish
estuaries. Full-grown manatees can reach up
to between eight and fifteen feet in length,
and up to 1,500 pounds in weight. Sea cows are
beautiful creatures that have unfortunately
been hunted almost to extinction for their meat
and hides in the Caribbean. The three at Alligator
Hole River, rescued from local fishermen, have
been nursed back to health and are now cared
for by the government. Their fate has influenced
legislation; today, manatees are a protected
species under Jamaican law, so it is illegal
to kill or capture any of the few that still
live in Jamaican waters.
Scientists
and folklorists have recently began theorizing
that the concept of mermaids or "river
mumma" as they are called in Jamaica, could
be because of sightings of female manatees,
which have breasts with teats and actually look
like women when they surface for air in the
night.
Famous For: At about 5 in the
evening, the three resident manatees at Alligator
Hole swim upstream to be fed by local conservationists.
Hang out by the walled lookout above the river
(swimming, boating, and touching the manatees
is strictly prohibited) and get comfortable.
If they come, it will be worth your while! Call
to them by name, they are: Dorothy, Hughette,
and Joan. Look out for Hughette, she is the
one with the cut on her tail, received when
her captors tied a rope to drag her away.
Must See: As you wind along
the road to Alligator Pond from Alligator Hole,
(feel free to use your horn liberally as you
drive to warn oncoming motorists of your approach)
there is a small sign on a gate on the right
side of the road. This is the entrance to Gut
River, a serene, untouched sliver of paradise.
The river itself empties into the sea a few
hundred yards from the road, and is crystal
clear for the short distance it flows from its
underground source. Local residents testify
to curative waters here, although no studies
have been done to prove them correct or otherwise.
What is true though, is that by the rocks near
the road, there are turquoise lagoon-like pools,
some as deep as fifteen feet, and all filled
with cool, crisp, refreshing water.
Lacovia
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General
History: Lacovia is the longest
village in Jamaica, laid out for more than
five miles on either side of the south coast
highway and the Black River, both of which
divide the community into East and West
Lacovia. |
Amusingly, East Lacovia falls to the south of
the river and to the west of the highway, while
West Lacovia rests on the northern bank of the
river, slightly to the east of the highway (hey,
what's in a name!).
Throughout
the 18th century Black River and Lacovia alternated
as the capital of the parish of St. Elizabeth.
Eventually, despite the fact that Lacovia was
a very important business centre, Black River
became the official capital, probably because
of its immensely successful seaport. In the
early days, it was Lacovia’s central position,
with convenient access to both the road and
the river for the transportation of goods to
and from the port in Black River on the coast
that brought it significance.
At
one point in time, the river was the main transportation
route for the parish, as road travel through
the dense and humid mangrove swamps was treacherous
at worst, miserable at best. The name Lacovia
seems to be derived from the Spanish name for
mahogany - "la caoba", when the main
industry was the logging of mahogany trees which
were floated down the river to the wharf for
export. Today, the cashew nut has replaced mahogany
lumber as the prime export of the area, and
the Black River is no longer used to transport
goods to the parish capital.
An
interesting feature of the town is the two tombstones
in front of the Texaco station along the main
road. There are many legends and much lore associated
with the tombstone; some residents claim that
it belongs to one of two soldiers who both duelled
and died in the area, others claim it holds
the body of an unknown British soldier. The
truth is truly unclear, but for an unhurried,
Jamaican experience, buy a drink for any ‘Coby’
resident waiting for a bus and ask for their
version of the story.
Interesting Story: Lacovia
was once home to one of the largest Jewish communities
in Jamaica, and the town is still of great importance
to the existing Jamaican Jewish community today.
There are many interesting remnants of that
Jewish heritage, including an old graveyard
with many telling tombstones. To date there
is no formal site, but do contact the Jamaica
National Heritage Trust for more information
on Jewish settlements in Jamaica. In Lacovia,
the Jewish cemetery falls on the land of one
Mr. Robinson, who respectfully maintains the
tombs and is always accommodating to visitors.
Famous For: In Lacovia, cashews
are abundant, but there is only one Cashoo.
Cashews are grown all over the district, and
cashew nuts are the area's largest cash crop.
The only ostriches in Jamaica are bred at Cashoo
Ostrich Park, a small attraction and working
farm just outside the village. At Cashoo, there
is horseback riding, river tubing and lots of
prime picnic spots, with a restaurant and bar
for grownups and a playground for children.
Must See: Beside the Texaco
gas station along the main highway, two grey
concrete tombs lie raised, almost in the middle
of the road. One is unmarked, but the other
belongs to one Thomas Jordan Spencer, said to
be an ancestor of the late Duchess of Wales,
Princess Diana. Why these men were buried here
is a mystery, as are the circumstances surrounding
their deaths – but just ask – almost
anyone from the area is sure to give an animated
account of their personal version of the story.
Say
Hello To: Mr. Robinson lives on the
land right beside the cemetery. Mr. Robinson
is a bit frail these days, (he is rather elderly)
but he will happily show you the tombstones
that lie interspersed with his pineapple ground.
Malvern
General History: High in the
Santa Cruz Mountains lies the sleepy town of
Malvern, named after its counterpart in England,
famous for the Malvern Health Resort. For a
place in St Elizabeth, (generally regarded as
one of the hottest parishes on the island) Malvern
has an unusually mild climate; even on very
warm days the temperature rarely averages more
than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It is for this reason
that in the nineteenth century, the “Switzerland
of the Caribbean” was used mainly as a
health resort, as wealthy European planters
and landowners welcomed the change from the
hot swampy mosquito infested areas in the Black
River Morass.
Today,
the evidence of the wealth and grandeur that
once dominated the village is all about gone,
except in a few structures such as the main
buildings of Hampton College. Nowadays, Malvern
is best known to Jamaicans as the home of three
important and historic Jamaican schools, Munro
College for boys, Hampton College for girls,
and the Bethlehem Teacher's College. Hampton
and Munro are two of the few remaining boarding
schools in Jamaica. Both still hold well-respected
reputations, and are the alma mater of many
successful and distinguished Jamaicans.
Most
year-round residents of the tiny community are
farmers or professionals that work in the plains
and commute in order to enjoy the spectacular
views and agreeable climate. These residents
relate in glee, the fact that there is no movie
theatre, no betting shop, or even a place for
large social gatherings, much to the distress
of the young and restless boarders of the three
institutions!
Interesting Story: It is said
that during the Second World War, the Belgian
King Leopold spent time in Jamaica, much of
it at a spa near to Black River, and the remainder
in Malvern, at the Malvern Guest House. The
Malvern Guest House no longer exists, but its
name has remained in the minds of many as the
place where His Majesty and the Queen were greeted
by the resident housekeeper with a warm Jamaican
“Good Morning Mr And Mrs King!”
Famous For: Malvern, at 2,300
feet above sea level is said to have one of
the best climates anywhere on earth –dry
and cool with crisp unpolluted air. While its
climate once made it popular, today Malvern
is best known to generations of Munro and Hampton
alumni as the place where many memorable coming-of-age
moments and schoolmate bonding experiences took
place. Every few years, the small village comes
alive when the schools hold their reunions,
and the mountains reverberate with the sounds
of laughter and gaiety of long-lost friends
coming together again.
Mandeville
 |
General
History: A harmonious contrast
between the old and the new, Manchester's
capital is a booming business centre set
amidst rolling hills and lush vegetation.
The town is situated some 2000 feet above
sea level, and is one of the more peaceful
and attractive places on the island. |
The
name Manchester comes from the days when the
Duke of Manchester, who later established the
capital and named it after his son, the Viscount
of Mandeville in 1816, governed Jamaica. Even
back in those days, wealthy English settlers
and expatriates favoured this part of the island,
building impressive mansions and country homes
here because the landscape reminded them of
their own countryside in climate, temperament
and aesthetic.
Today,
a large number of the residents here are Jamaicans
who have lived abroad for many years, usually
in England, and who have returned to retire.
But Mandeville is a far cry from the prim English
town it used to be in the earlier part of the
twentieth century. In the 1950s large quantities
of Bauxite, the mineral ore used to manufacture
Aluminium were found deposited in the surrounding
countryside and the discovery changed the way
the town evolved tremendously.
ALCAN,
one of the first companies to mine in Jamaica,
set up their offices one mile outside the village
green and began excavating around Manchester.
The Kirkvine Plant at Kendall was erected to
process bauxite into aluminium, the first of
its kind in Jamaica, and an important economic
and social development for Manchester and the
whole country. In the past fifty years, the
influx of bauxite money from the nearby factories
has thrust the once quiet village into a new
role as informal commercial capital of central
Jamaica.
Mandeville,
however, has not lost touch with itself and
its roots, and still, traditions like the Annual
Flower Show of the Mandeville Horticultural
Society continue, and elegant establishments
in town still serve afternoon tea. For Jamaican
residents returning to the island, Mandeville
is a top choice for retirement, because the
town is pleasantly rural, yet offers city conveniences.
At
the centre of Jamaica, Mandeville is appropriately
a base for travelers and business people alike,
with branches of all the nation's major banks,
a variety of trendy shopping malls and office
buildings easily accessible. When in town, do
take time to appreciate the delightful examples
of Jamaican architecture; a blend of classic
Georgian style created with local materials.
Of
particular interest is the Mandeville Court
House, built in 1820 with limestone blocks cut
by slave labour. The courthouse, one of only
four original public buildings, has a portico
supported by Doric columns flanked by a curving
double staircase. See also the Manchester Parish
Church, the Mandeville Jail and Workhouse (now
the Police Station) and afterwards, stop for
drinks at the historic Mandeville Hotel.
For
golf enthusiasts, a visit to the Manchester
Club provides a prime opportunity to play an
excellent nine holes on Jamaica’s oldest
golf course. Hikers and bird watchers will also
be pleased to know that some of the best nature
opportunities are available in and around town.
The
quiet calm of the town is never really disturbed,
although throughout the year there are other
festivals and events worth stopping by for.
In addition to the Annual Flower Show, there
is the Manchester Club's Tennis Week, usually
held in mid-August, Rebel Salute in January,
and a number of food festivals.
Interesting Story: Many of
Jamaica's leading public officials hail from
the parish of Manchester. Interestingly enough,
two of the most famous and longest serving are
associated with the area; the original Duke
of Manchester, whom the parish is named for,
and the eccentric Cecil Charlton, successful
businessman and former mayor. Both have an interesting
history of public service; the Duke was the
longest serving public official in Jamaica for
many years, having served nineteen years as
Governor, an appointed post that usually lasted
no longer than five years.
Cecil
Charlton, sno-cone salesman, self made millionaire,
farmer and philanthropist, was mayor of Mandeville
for a whopping 20 years, and even today, long
after his retirement, he is still "Mayor
Charlton" to many people. Mayor Charlton
is still very involved in Mandeville society
and government, and his influence is apparent
in the look of Mandeville today.
Mayor
Charlton lives in a very unique octagonal mansion
on top of Huntingdon Summit, which has an indoor
pond attached to the outdoor swimming pool by
an underground tunnel along with many other
fascinating curios. He entertains guests regularly,
and allows tours through his house by appointment.
Be sure to stop in and chat - surely he will
have many interesting tales to tell!
Famous For: Home of Jamaica's
first major bauxite mining facility, Mandeville
is today the prosperous metropolis it is because
of the mineral found in the blood-red soil.
The process of excavating is a fascinating window
into an important element of Jamaica's economy,
and WINDALCO, the West Indies Alumina Company,
offers complete mine tours on appointment.
Must See: Mandeville has retained
many characteristics of its colonial heritage.
One in particular, the English tradition of
maintaining and nurturing complete gardens around
fabulous mansions is still a favourite among
residents here. The most famous garden in Mandeville
is Mrs. Carmen Stephenson's Garden, a delightful
showcase of Jamaican flowers and an award winning
orchid greenhouse. Mrs. Stephenson is an active
member of the Mandeville Horticultural Society,
the oldest of its kind in the western Hemisphere.
In addition to maintaining her famous garden,
she also runs a small flower shop in the Manchester
Shopping Centre that is supplied by the garden.
Most days, Mrs. Stephenson would be more than
happy to chat for a few minutes about the variety
she keeps in stock. Please stop by the shop
or call ahead to make an appointment to see
the famous garden, remember, it is a private
residence!
Other
houses and homes in and around Mandeville tell
the story of the evolution of the area. Two
of note, the Marlborough Great House and Cecil
Charlton's mansion are private residences, but
the owners sometimes offer tours by appointment.
The Bloomfield Great House, another beautiful
old home, is open to the public on a regular
basis. Bloomfield Great House, now houses a
gallery on the first floor and a restaurant
and bar on the second, and offers prime views
of the town and the Manchester countryside.
Marshall's Pen Great House, once a farmhouse
and coffee factory, provides excellent opportunities
for bird-watching, especially since the owners,
Robert and Ann Sutton, are an ornithologist
and environmental scientist respectively. They
receive bird enthusiasts and large groups by
special arrangement only.
Say
Hello to: Diana McIntyre-Pike, local
authority on just about everything and a phenomenal
resource for information on Mandeville and the
South Coast. Diana also runs Countrystyle Tours,
a local community tourism initiative, and the
Astra Country Inn, one of the three hotels in
town. She has lived in Manchester all her life
and knows the area very well. Stop in and say
hello, she will take over from there!
May
Pen
 |
General
History: May Pen is one of the
largest towns in Jamaica and is the parish
capital of Clarendon. |
The
town was created in the eighteenth century on
land belonging to a cattle estate owned by a
Rev William May, who came to Jamaica as rector
of the Kingston Parish Church. Named for the
estate, May Pen is said to have first existed
as two inns located across from each other on
opposite banks of the Rio Minho. Here, travellers
were forced to stop rather than risk traversing
the raging river, which was then un-bridged.
Once a bridge was constructed, May Pen became
a popular and fashionable place to live for
the landed classes of the interior, and today
the town is the fifth largest metropolitan area
on the island.
In
the May Pen vicinity are some of Jamaica’s
premier educational institutions, including
the Vere Technical and Glenmuir High schools,
Clarendon College and the May Pen Primary School,
the largest primary school in the Caribbean.
The three secondary schools enjoy an ongoing
rivalry in education and sports, and in recent
years have brought home the National School’s
Challenge Quiz Trophy a number of times.
Near
to the town, (which is located in the centre
of the country's most agriculturally productive
region) is the Denbigh Agricultural Show Ground,
the permanent site of the largest agricultural
exposition in the country, held annually during
the first weekend in August. Each year, ‘Denbigh’
is the largest and most exciting event to take
place in Clarendon, as May Pen is usually a
sleepy rural town.
For
the most part, the folks here are predominantly
rural sugar and bauxite workers who make a living
from the nearby JAMALCO Bauxite Works and the
Moneymusk Sugar Estate. On weekends, however,
the town is infused with activity, as hundreds
of people from rural Clarendon swarm to the
various shops and markets to buy and sell. The
heart and soul of May Pen, however, lies in
the numerous sports teams, and throughout the
year hundreds of people throng to the various
venues to watch and support their favourite
football, netball or track and field teams.
Famous For: Held over the first
weekend in August each year, the Denbigh Agricultural
Show is the largest event of its kind in Jamaica,
attracting thousands of farmers, shoppers and
curious onlookers.
Must See: Every visitor to
May Pen should really budget time to stay for
a ‘Sunday ball game’ featuring the
hometown favourites, Hazard United Football
Club. Hazard is a National Premier League team
that dominates the central region, however,
despite its loyal and enthusiastic following,
the team has only won the championship once,
in 1992. The games, held at Brancourt on the
Four Paths Road leading out of town, are highly
spirited and well attended, and win, lose or
draw, celebrations in town abound when they
are played.
Say
Hello To: For information on historic
or contemporary May Pen, stop by the Glenmuir
High School Library and ask to speak with Ms.
Charmaine Holmes. Ms. Holmes, one of the warmest
personalities around, will, with advance notice,
introduce visitors to ordinary Jamaican people
and give helpful directions or information on
where to go and what to see in and around May
Pen.
Milk
River
General History: The town of
Milk River is associated both with the river
of the same name, and the mineral spring also
found in the area. The river itself is a main
source of the water that irrigates the vast
agricultural regions of the Clarendon plains,
but is largely un-navigable and infested with
crocodiles. The mineral springs contain some
of the most radioactive waters in the world,
but although they bear the same name, the springs
do not originate from the river, but from a
source near to Round Hill.
The
waters at Milk River Bath are highly radioactive,
nine times as radioactive as the waters in Bath,
England, fifty times as radioactive as those
at Vichy in France, and fifty-four times those
in Baden in Switzerland. On average, the waters
here are a consistent 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit
throughout the year, and contain high levels
of magnesium, calcium, sulphate and natural
chloride.
The
mineral waters flow directly from a source in
a rock and are especially recommended for use
by those suffering from rheumatism, arthritis,
sciatica and nerve complaints. The waters, however,
are so hot and radioactive that patrons are
warned to stay in for no more than ten to twenty
minutes at a time, and then for no more than
three baths per day.
Interesting Story: It is said
that the curative waters of the spa were discovered
in the eighteenth century during slavery. Legend
has it that a slave, owned by one Mr Jonathan
Ludford of Clarendon, committed an offence for
which he was brutally whipped and locked away
in a dungeon. Imprisoned and severely wounded,
and vowing never to be a slave again, he broke
out of his chains and escaped. Days later, presumed
dead by his fellow slaves, the man returned
to the estate in full health, healed of the
wounds he had received only a few days before.
In
an effort to convince others to run away with
him, he told a tale of a remarkable salty spring
in which he had bathed. Everyone who saw him
was amazed at his recovery, and soon, word reached
the owner of the estate who had ordered him
punished. Ludford himself was astounded at the
recovery, and promised to grant the slave freedom
if he revealed the location of the spring. The
slave lead a party to the location, and Ludford
promptly acquired the spring and the lands around
it, and started the Milk River Baths.
Upon
his death, Ludford bequeathed all property and
land to the government and people of Jamaica
to benefit all who needed it. Since the first
baths opened in 1794, thousands of people have
visited Milk River to heal themselves of a variety
of ailments.
Famous For: The Milk River
Bath is one of the most radioactive mineral
springs in the world. Its curative waters are
reputed to provide healing for almost all illnesses
and over the years, thousands flock to the spa
– many repeat guests – to experience
this phenomenon.
Must See: Of course, the spa
at Milk River is the biggest attraction, but
not far away is the famous Farquhar's Beach
(commonly called "the beach" by locals).
Farquhar's Beach is actually a bay enclosed
by a seasonal sand bar that separates the small
saline lake from the open sea. Here you can
buy lobster, shrimp, or fish from the boats
that come in intermittently during the day,
but the thrilling find in the area are ancient
Taino caves. In these caves, pottery shards
line the floor and centuries' old paintings
on the cave walls add life and create a connection
to the people who once inhabited this island.
Please do not remove items from or desecrate
the caves, they stand on Taino holy ground and
are part of Jamaica's delicate archaeological
Heritage.
Say
Hello To: Anique Walters works the
front desk at the Milk River Hotel and Spa.
She will be happy to share information on the
facilities offered at the spa and on the history
of the area.
Mocho
General History: Very few visitors
(or Jamaicans for that matter) have actually
been to the village of Mocho, nestled deep in
the Mocho Mountains of the Clarendon interior.
Ask any Jamaican about Mocho, however, and everyone
has some comment to make. In Jamaica, the name
is used disparagingly to refer to the most provincial
behaviour, place or item – not in reference
to the pleasant and industrious rural community,
but rather as a comment on the location that
was once one of the most remote and inaccessible
in Jamaica.
Pronounced
“muk-coh”, the village is a typical
rural farming community where small farmers
and landowners have cultivated their grounds
for generations. The majority of people who
live in Mocho work in agriculture; either on
the vast sugar estates of the Rio Minho Valley,
or on their own farms, producing garden vegetables
and ground provisions.
Santa
Cruz
 |
General
History: Affectionately called
'Santa' by St. Elizabeth residents, the
area takes its name from the Santa Cruz
Mountains, which tower above the town. |
Santa
Cruz is the most central town in the parish
of St. Elizabeth, and although Black River is
the official parish capital, Santa Cruz is the
shopping, socializing and business mecca of
the parish. For many people in the inland mountainous
areas of the parish, Santa Cruz is the largest
town within reasonable travelling distance,
and the town attracts people from as far away
as Bull Savannah in the south and Accompong
in the north.
As
one enters the town, it is hard to ignore the
fact that Santa Cruz mushroomed from a small
market town into a major metropolis; aside from
the occasional nineteenth century Jamaican Vernacular
building, shopping plazas seem to pop out from
every corner and crevice, and everywhere in
sight seems to be constantly under construction.
All over town, vendors and small shops selling
everything from schoolbooks to kitchen knives
to cricket balls beckon to the hundreds of people
that saunter through in search of bargains and
supplies. At any given moment, the town itself
is a congested throng of shoppers, sellers,
taxis and buses – to add to the chaos,
Santa Cruz also happens to be a major transportation
hub on Jamaica's south coast. Despite its limited
aesthetic appeal, the town exudes a warm vitality
and pleasant, welcoming vibe. As busy as people
look, just about anyone will stop to give directions,
share information, or to just chat for a while.
Famous For: Passing through
Santa Cruz, one cannot help but notice all the
items for sale everywhere. Anything imaginable
is available in Santa, from internet access
to cow head soup, from hand-made skirts to made-in-china
plastic toys. The town is famous for the shopping
opportunities it makes available to the people
in St. Elizabeth, who converge in the town en
masse to score the best bargains.
Shooter's
Hill
General History: Deep in the
centre of the island, nestled in the hills of
Manchester, is the small community of Shooter's
Hill, home of Jamaica's famous Pickapeppa Sauce.
A concoction of sweetness and spice, the thick
brown condiment is a delightful addition to
almost any Jamaican meal.
The
Pickapeppa Company Limited has been operating
from its small factory in Shooter's Hill since
1921, when the recipe was developed and first
marketed among local gourmet connoisseurs. Since
then, the company has branched out somewhat,
and now manufactures four products. In addition
to the ‘Jamaican Ketchup’, the original
Pickapeppa Sauce, the company has developed
and now produces Pickapeppa Hot Red Pepper Sauce,
Pickapeppa All Purpose Meat Seasoning, and Pickapeppa
Mango Chutney, most of which is exported to
more than six major markets around the world.
The
most famous of the company's products, the original
Pickapeppa Sauce, is a unique blend of eight
different spices and flavours including raisins,
tamarind, sugar, mangoes, tomatoes, onions and
red peppers. The formula used today is the same
one that made the sauce initially popular, aged
in oak barrels for one year with no added preservatives,
and with about eighty per cent of ingredients
coming fresh from local farmers. The recipe
is a secret of the Lyn Kee Chow family, but
visitors may observe the meticulous process
of creating the sauce by calling ahead to the
factory, where regular tours run from September
to April.
Shooter's
Hill is also home to another significant factory,
the Windalco Bauxite Company, which in 2001
acquired most of the land in the area from the
Alcan Bauxite Company as part of their Kirkvine
works.
The
district of Shooter's Hill, however, for all
its unique features, is not unique in name –there
are other Shooter's Hills to be found in the
parishes of St. Catherine, Hanover, and St.
Andrew.
Interesting Story: The Kirkvine
Works was the first plant in Jamaica to actually
process bauxite into aluminium and is still
the largest plant on the island. At one point
in the mid-twentieth century, Jamaica was the
second largest exporter of bauxite/alumina in
the world.
Famous For: Shooter’s
Hill is best known as the home of the original
Pickapeppa Sauce, produced in the community
since 1921. Pickapeppa Sauce can be used on
meat dishes, cheese, and fish or simply to add
flavour and spice to any meal. It is one of
Jamaica's more popular exports, and was one
of the first entirely Jamaican products to become
known and widely used within international mainstream
culinary circles.
Must See: The view: at the
top of Shooter's Hill is the tomb of the man
who originally owned most of the land in the
area, Alexander Woodburn Heron. Heron left instructions
in his will to be buried there, and today the
Windalco Bauxite Company maintains the tomb.
Beside the tomb is an excellent lookout, and
on a clear day, one can look across the island
and see the Blue Mountain Peak, 60 miles away
to the east.
Say
Hello To: When in Shooter’s Hill,
stop by the Pickapeppa factory for a tour, and
ask for Joseph Lyn Kee Chow; oldest member of
the Lyn Kee Chow family. He may not be around,
since he is semi-retired, but he may turn up
while you are there – he does that occasionally,
just to make sure that all is going well!
Spur
Tree
 |
General
History: Spur Tree, a mountainous
region lying between the parishes of Manchester
and St Elizabeth, seems to have been named
in honour of the gigantic cotton trees that
used to grow in the area, throwing out huge
buttresses or spurs, hence 'Spur tree'.
|
The
descent from the hills of Manchester to the
plains of St. Elizabeth is not for the faint-hearted.
The hill rises at a breathtaking 304m per half
mile as it crosses the Don Figueroa Mountains
that dominate the topography of the two parishes.
In the old days, travellers would dread the
mighty spur tree hill – this long and
tedious crossing now takes 15 minutes, but used
to take as much as 5 hours! To make the steep
climb over the hill carriages would have to
be pulled by draught mules or oxen. Many travellers
would exchange their carriages for a strong
Jamaican pony, accustomed to the terrain.
Today,
trucks, buses and regular passenger vehicles
make the journey comfortable and easy for some
(not the driver!) to appreciate the stunning
views of the plains of St Elizabeth and on a
clear day, the Caribbean Sea. If the view leaves
you breathless or maybe even hungry, dotted
along the hillside are ‘Jerk’ stops
where you can take in the view (while stationary!),
a few cold drinks and indulge in delicious jerk
chicken, pork or sausage and the Spur Tree specialty,
curried goat and rice.
Famous For: The Hillside Jerk
Centre is a favourite local stop. At the summit
of the hill, thick clouds of heavily spiced
aromatic smoke waft from the jerk pit, enticing
even the hurried to pause and appreciate the
good food, the good company and the fantastic
view!
Must See: By day, the view
from the top of Spur Tree Hill is fascinating,
but at night it is completely astounding. At
night, the lights of the Alpart Bauxite Works
at Nain, in operation 24 hours a day, look like
a small island city in the middle of the plains.
Pull into the parking lot of one of the restaurants
on the side of the road to look – the
view is best appreciated standing in one spot!
Toll
Gate
General History: In the heart
of the island, along the main road between May
Pen and Mandeville, is the small rural village
of Toll Gate. The residents may tell you that
not much happens in Toll Gate, and they are
right – nowadays very little by the way
of excitement passes their way. In the 1850s,
however, the village enjoyed its proverbial
fifteen minutes of fame when riots, started
there, brought the small district to the attention
of the whole island and the then government.
The
riots began when toll gates were erected along
many major thoroughfares, preventing travellers
from proceeding to their destinations until
they paid a small fee. The tolls collected,
it is said, were to fund road building and maintenance,
but even the noble intention could not convince
the electorate to pay the small fee. Eventually,
Governor Eyre abolished the toll gate system,
but the village along what is now the A2 retained
the name from the toll gate that stood there.
Today,
Toll Gate is a major stop for truckers driving
across the island, and home to a large community
of cattle rearers and elderly farmers. The main
income generating activity in the area is farming,
seconded by animal husbandry and cane cutting,
in season. Generally, the citizens of Toll Gate
do not see many tourists, but visitors are always
welcome, and members of the community will be
happy to talk about ol’ time Jamaica,
politics, or anything at all, over a game of
dominoes, in one of the shops along the main
road.
Must See: When in Toll Gate,
do stop at Old Man's Corner, the local hangout
spot where old men can be seen passing their
days with their friends. If you spend an afternoon
there, you can hear some of the most fascinating
stories about growing up in Jamaica, and about
life in general. Walk over from Joney's Restaurant
where you can get humongous portions of cow
foot and rice, cow head and yam, cow tail stew,
cow cod soup or tripe and beans served hot and
prepared to order.
Say
Hello To: Look out for "I",
a Rastafarian farmer who passes through town
occasionally. “I” wears only a crocus
bag (burlap) loincloth decorated with colorful
threads and is extremely outspoken about leading
a holistic lifestyle. He is at one with nature.
He also carries with him a small whip (to keep
away evil) and will upon request demonstrate
how he uses it.
Links
& Sources:
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