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<< Caribbean << Jamaica | Runaway Bay

Runaway beach

Runaway Bay

Once a mere satellite of Ocho Rios, Runaway Bay, 16km (10 miles) west of Ocho Rios, has become a destination in its own right, with white-sand beaches that are much less crowded than those in Ocho Rios.

Since you're so far removed from the action such as it is in Ocho Rios, you stay at Runaway Bay mainly if you're interested in hanging out at a particular resort. It is especially recommended for those who want to escape from the hordes descending on Ocho Rios, where cruise-ship crowds and aggressive vendors can intrude on your solitude.

This part of Jamaica's north coast has several distinctions: It was the first part of the island seen by Columbus, the site of the first Spanish settlement on the island, and the point of departure of the last Spaniards leaving Jamaica following their defeat by the British.

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General History: Runaway Bay is certainly one of the most scenic areas in Jamaica, which is probably why it was the first place in Jamaica to be developed almost completely as a resort area.
Runaway Bay

Since the early 1960s, when the old Cardiff Hall Estate was converted to a combination of luxury hotels, golf courses and private villas, the town has developed its own character and persona as an elegant yet lively getaway for those who truly need to relax, enjoy a bit of luxury and rejuvenate themselves completely.

Indeed, much of the beauty of Runaway Bay lies in the fact that while the town itself is not a vibrant bustling centre, it is conveniently located within easy reach of Ocho Rios in the east, Montego Bay in the west, and with Brown's Town inland to the south. Also as well as having some of the most spectacular beaches in the Caribbean, Runaway Bay is endowed with captivating natural features such as the Pear Tree River and the Green Grotto Caves.

Over the years, there has been much debate about the name of this small coastal town. Some believe it got the name as the fleeing point of the last batch of Spanish soldiers retreating from English troops under the directive of Governor Ysassi in the 1600s. Others argue that it once was the point of departure of African slaves from inland sugar plantations who ran away to Cuba. Whichever story is true, according to one resident, "nobody nah try (to) run ‘way” from Runaway Bay today; in fact, in the hills outside the resort town, many foreigners have run away from their former selves and made Jamaica home!

Famous For: Do stop by the Green Grotto Caves, the largest and most accessible caves on the island. The two caves open to the public are the Runaway Cave and the Green Grotto Cave, both estimated to be approximately half-million years old. Along with stalagmites and stalactites, there is a small and fascinating underground lake in the innermost cavern. The caves belong to a series of interconnected passageways and chambers that spread far beneath the Dry Harbour Mountains to the south. It is said that slaves used the caves as an escape route, but it is unclear whether these slaves were running to the coast in order to leave the country, or whether they were running to the mountainous interior to join bands of maroons in the mountains. Tours of the caves in which your guide identifies interesting and sometimes amusing rock formations, last about 45 minutes and are provided at a small cost.

In addition to the caves, some of the best beaches in the Caribbean can be found in Runaway Bay, protected by a large tropical coral reef. Accordingly, the resort area is one of the most ideal for water sports, scuba-diving, all outdoor sports and of course, sunbathing.

Must See: Located on a hill overlooking the bay is the Runaway Bay HEART Hotel and Training Institute. HEART, the Human Employment and Resource Training Trust is a government-run programme that aims to develop practical and vocational skills among young Jamaicans. The Runaway Bay HEART Hotel employs predominantly hospitality industry trainees, and needless to say, since it began operating has maintained a reputation for excellence in service, since trainees are graded on guest satisfaction. At the very least, a visit to the Cardiff Hall Restaurant (also on the hotel property and run by trainees) is a worthwhile experience, as the culinary institute usually manages to pull a "clean sweep" of medal positions in the annual JCDC Culinary Arts Competition. Upon leaving the institute, apart from being pleasantly satisfied, guests often feel the warmth and well being of knowing that their patronage has helped a young Jamaican to master essential skills for entry into the working world.


Columbus Park Museum

on Queens Highway, Discovery Bay (tel. 876/973-2135), is a large, open area between the main coast road and the sea at Discovery Bay. Just pull off the road and walk among the fantastic collection of exhibits; admission is free. There's everything from a canoe made from a solid piece of cottonwood (the way Arawaks did it more than 5 centuries ago) to a stone cross that was originally placed on the Barrett Estate (14km/8 3/4 miles east of Montego Bay) by Edward Barrett, brother of poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning. You'll see a tally, used to count bananas carried on men's heads from plantation to ship, as well as a planter's strongbox with a weighted lead base to prevent its theft. Other items are 18th-century cannons, a Spanish water cooler and calcifier, a fish pot made from bamboo, a corn husker, and a water wheel. Pimento trees, from which allspice is produced, dominate the park, which is open daily from 8am to 4pm (admission is free).


Seville Great House
Heritage Park
(tel. 876/972-2191).

Built in 1745 by the British, it contains a collection of artifacts once used by everybody from the Amerindians to African slaves. In all, you're treated to an exhibit of 5 centuries' worth of Jamaican history. Modest for a great house, it has wattle-and-daub construction. A small theater presents a 15-minute historical film about the house. It's open daily from 9am to 5pm; admission is $4.


Bob Marley

Reggae fans from all over the world visit the little hamlet of Nine Mile to pay their respects at the Bob Marley Centre & Mausoleum (tel. 876/995-1763), which is open daily from 9:30am to 6:30pm, charging an admission of $12.

The village where Marley grew up and where he was buried has the unusual name of Nine Mile. It's a group of ramshackle farms, stray goats, and chickens.

You can go inside Marley's two-room shanty, filled with family memorabilia, including photographs. Marley lived here from the ages of 6 to 13. Adjoining the shack is the so-called mausoleum in which Marley was buried. He shares the gravesite with his half-brother, who was gunned down by police in Miami during a drug bust.

On-site is a vegetarian restaurant and a little shop selling Marley tapes.

The big event of the year here is Marley's birthday each February 6. Reggae fans descend on Nine Mile to listen to concerts. The performer's son, Ziggy Marley, also a reggae star, often appears to entertain.

To reach the pilgrimage site, take the B3 from Ocho Rios south to Brown's Town, a distance of 39km (24 miles). From there continue south to Alexandria for 10km (6 1/4 miles). Once at Alexandria, turn east (signposted ALVA), going for another 15km (9 1/4 miles) until you arrive at the hamlet of Nine Mile of Marley fame


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