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Port
Antonio
A
magnet for foreign visitors during the 1950s
and 1960s, the quiet town of PORT ANTONIO feels
more like an isolated backwater these days.
But that may change following the recent redevelopment
of the harbour, which now boasts a waterside
promenade and increased marina facilities; across
the bay, the hotel and beaches at Navy Island
(currently closed) are slated to receive some
much-needed attention, too. At this point, however,
there's not a lot to see, but "Portie"
remains a friendly and beguiling place, with
a bustling central market and a couple of lively
clubs.
Comparing
Resorts
Unlike
Montego Bay, Negril, and Ocho Rios, less visited
and much more remote Port Antonio is an elite
retreat-long a favorite of visiting celebrities
such as Bette Davis, Ginger Rogers, Harrison
Ford, and Denzel Washington.
Although
much of Jamaica is overbuilt, Port Antonio lies
in a relatively undeveloped area. As one local
vendor put it, "Ocho Rios attracts the
tourist; we attract the traveler."
The
area's white-sand beaches are among the island's
finest and least crowded. Only a few resorts
here can be described as upmarket; most of this
region is a haven for the frugal traveler seeking
modest digs. Port Antonio lacks the all-inclusive
megaresorts of Ocho Rios or Montego Bay; if
that's what you need, head elsewhere. The same
goes for shopping, nightlife, and deluxe dining:
If they're absolutely essential to your vacation,
hit the road. And if you like to run naked on
the beach, your hair in braids, Negril is more
your speed; Port Antonio, quite frankly, is
perhaps the most staid of the major Jamaican
resort towns.
Americans
tend to go for Montego Bay, Ocho Rios, and Negril
(in that order). In Port Antonio, by contrast,
you're much more likely to encounter European
visitors, especially from Germany.
The
good news is that you can link up with other
resorts or attractions on day trips while staying
here. Port Antonio is within easy driving distance
of Ocho Rios; the Blue Mountains and John Crow
Mountains are at the southern edge of the town.
Hoteliers
in Port Antonio know the area may never be as
chic as it was in the 1950s or the early 1960s.
Still, they are preparing for stiff competition
in the 21st century with a push to attract a
new type of traveler, the eco-sensitive hiker
who wants to explore the natural beauty of the
island-especially that mountain scenery to the
south of Port Antonio. If you love nature, there
may be no better place in Jamaica to base yourself.
And
if a movie star still sneaks into town on occasion
to chill out, well, that's okay with the locals,
too.
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Port
Antonio Restaurants >>
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Shopping >>
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Port
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Charms
of this Region
Blue
Lagoon
The lagoon’s mysterious waters fascinate
visitors with seductive hues, seemingly endless
depths and brisk temperatures. Truly a natural
wonder, it defies imagination...
The
Beaches
Cradled between lush tropical vegetation and
the translucent Caribbean Sea, Port Antonio’s
beaches are, perhaps, the most spectacular on
the island.
Villas
Indulge in a private vacation in paradise. Whether
a family holiday or romantic getaway, these
beautiful villas promise to leave you feeling
pampered, relaxed and rejuvenated.
Hiking
Don your boots and explore the Rio Grande Valley.
Bursting with colourful flowers, hidden waterfalls
and healing herbs, there are many exciting worlds
to discover.
Boston
Jerk
A scotch bonnet affair; sprinkle more sauce
if you dare. Sample seasoned meats and mystify
your palates with the tongue-tickling flavours
of Jamaican jerk dishes.
Navy
Island
Former hideaway of royalty and celebrities,
this small offshore cay still retains the power
to charm and entice modern day visitors.
Surfing
Find the perfect swell, brave the wave and ride
into the time of your life at Portie’s
awesome surfing spots.
Sport
Fishing
Toss your line and wait for a bite; the waters
of Port Antonio have wooed avid sport fishers
for decades. There’s prize catch waiting
for you…
Reach
Falls
Plunging into a jade-coloured pool, this secluded
waterfall is one of Jamaica’s best-kept
secrets. Come, renew your spirit and refresh
your soul in the cool mountain spring water.
Rafting
on the Rio Grande
Jamaica’s original rafting trip…relax
on a bamboo raft made for two, with pleasant
surprises around each picturesque bend.
Annotto
Bay
General
History: In northeast St. Mary, acres
and acres of banana plantations seem to stretch
forever, but just between the swaying banana
leaves and the sea is the small, coastal highway
town of Annotto Bay. In the early twentieth
century, Annotto Bay was a thriving shipping
town on the north coast, with one of the most
important banana shipping wharves operated by
the St. Mary Banana Company.
In
the town centre, a handful of early twentieth
century Jamaican vernacular buildings house
government social service offices such as the
Post Office, the Tax Office and the Police Station.
Most of the town lies between two tributaries
of the Pencar River that flows into the sea
on the east and west sides of the town centre.
A small one-lane bridge over the Pencar marks
the entrance to the town from the west, and
where river meets sea, fishermen string and
repair their nets between the lofty coconut
trees that line the waterfront.
One
of the most interesting sights in town is the
Baptist Church, which stands proudly beside
the Tax Office and market. The red-brick church,
with stained glass windows and elaborate fretwork,
is a late nineteenth century ‘village
baroque’ structure with scripture quotes
engraved in the building’s yellow trim.
Ask around for the history of the church; it
is said that the minister who built it, painstakingly
cut and installed all the panes of stained glass
himself!
Interesting Story: Annatto,
a fruit native to the Caribbean has been used
in Jamaica for hundreds of years. Annatto, called
‘roucou’ in the southern and eastern
Caribbean islands, produces spiny seed pods
which, open to reveal a bright orange seed coating
that is almost tasteless. Many Amerindian peoples
used the pigment as face paint and a food and
cloth dye, while enslaved people from West Africa
used the dye as a substitute for palm oil in
cooking, a practice still observed today in
many Jamaican kitchens.
Famous For: In and around Annotto
Bay, passers-by will see many roadside stalls
selling yellow straw-like seaweed, washed, dried,
bleached and hung on stalls and shopfronts along
the way. This is called Irish Moss, a potent
health supplement said to have aphrodisiac properties.
The Irish Moss drink is extremely popular in
Jamaica, and is highly recommended for men who
want to build their sexual stamina. The weed
is boiled and strained, and the liquid seasoned
with spices and sweetened to taste. A number
of local companies have canned or packaged the
drink for retail sale but, as with many similar
products, the homemade version usually tastes
better!
Must See: Ras Bingi, aka Jah
Bings, runs a small ‘pastry shop’
along the highway approximately 5 kilometres
outside the Annotto Bay town centre. Interestingly
enough, Jah Bings has not actually sold pastry
for a while, but he does sell beautiful conch
shells, Irish Moss, ice-cold jelly coconuts
and a range of herbs and refreshments!
Buff
Bay
General
History: Some consider the town centre
of Buff Bay, a small seaside community on Jamaica’s
north-east coast to be one of the best laid
out towns on the island. Within the town there
are a number of modest representations of nineteenth
century architecture including the interesting
St Georges’ parish church on the seaward
side of town. The Buff Bay river and Spanish
river valleys inland from the town make up one
of the most fertile agricultural regions on
the island, cultivated diligently by hundreds
of small coffee and banana farmers. For travellers
heading west, Buff Bay marks the first of a
series of small picturesque bays ideal for surfing
and fishing.
Interesting Story: The Anglican
church in Buff Bay is called the St George’s
parish church, a relic from the time when Buff
Bay was the capital of the similarly named parish.
The parish of St George no longer exists, split
into today’s parishes of St Mary and Portland,
but the church remains, lording it over the
ocean front with its cut-stone clock tower and
belfry.
Famous For: About a mile east
of Buff Bay is the small community of Blueberry
Hill, perhaps named for the Fats Domino hit
song of the mid-1900s! The thrills of Blueberry
Hill, however, are not hard to miss –
along the main north coast highway is a lone
blue and white bamboo hut with spicy Jerk smoke
pouring from the roof. This is the famous Blueberry
Hill Jerk Centre, a popular stop for travellers
and a favourite local hangout. Blueberry Hill
specializes in Jerk pork and Jerk chicken, but
during the appropriate season, ask for of their
delicious conch stew, some say it’s the
best in Jamaica!
Must See: Crystal Springs,
a few kilometres from the Buff Bay town centre
is a private botanical garden and recreation
site. The entire site is open to the public,
however, with prior reservations and for a small
admission fee. Popular with Jamaicans for group
events such as picnics and weddings on the rolling
lawns, or amidst the acres of well-manicured
gardens, Crystal Springs is also ‘kid-friendly’,
with a fish pond, a small river and marked trails
running through the forest. For the keen ornithologist
as well as the amateur bird watcher, there are
many species of exotic tropical birds in and
around the area. Look out for Jamaican ‘Doctor’
birds (humming birds) flitting in and out of
flower beds!
Across
from the Anglican church is the Pacesetters
Cafeteria, a fixture in the Buff Bay landscape
for many years. Pacesetters serves hearty Jamaican
meals, natural juices and hot Jamaican Blue
Mountain Coffee. It’s the ideal place
to catch up on community gossip, and to meet
new and old friends as the restaurant hosts
a constant stream of Portlanders.
| Manchioneal
General
History: Tucked sensuously away
in a cove bathed by pellucid seas, Manchioneal
is the most easterly town in the parish
of Portland. Unhurried, bucolic and breathtakingly
picturesque, Manchioneal was one of the
first banana shipping ports in Jamaica.
Today, colourful canoes of the large fishing
community have replaced the trans-Atlantic
steamers of yesteryear. |
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In
the past, this coastal community was heavily
populated with manchioneel trees, pretty green
trees with small round fruit that look like
crab apples. As many sailors and other visitors
to the area soon realized, the tree is highly
poisonous, and even sitting beneath its branches
is a dangerous prospect since the dripping sap
can cause blisters and burns. The fruits, although
enticingly sweet-smelling, must not be eaten
or touched. There are still a few trees left
in the village, and residents identify the trees
to visitors to prevent unfortunate mishaps.
Manchioneal
is a favourite destination for Jamaicans and
eco-minded tourists; the former mainly for the
wide selection of seafood available, the latter
for the beauty and mystique of the secluded
and undeveloped Reach Falls, two miles away
from the town centre.
Interesting Story: Indigenous
Caribbean peoples discovered the poisonous properties
of manchineel tree sap and used it as a weapon.
It is said that Carib warriors would tie their
prisoners of war to manchineel trees and then
make strategic incisions in the bark of the
tree, allowing the sap to flow and burn the
skin of victims until they died. Sometimes,
arrows would be tipped with the sap, poisoning
targets on contact.
Must See: Without a doubt one
of the most exotic and beautiful places on earth,
Reach Falls on Portland’s Driver’s
River are made up of a series of thundering
cascades and deep emerald pools. The falls appear
at the end of a two and a half mile drive down
a winding bumpy road lined with coconut trees
and small country homes. Here, it is not uncommon
to see goats or chickens sauntering contentedly
about or to see children climbing any of the
numerous fruit trees of the well-irrigated valley.
A small contribution at the concession stand
allows entry to the falls, and an assigned falls
guide will take you down bamboo-tipped steps
to the falls themselves. The falls are extremely
popular with incognito celebrities, and are
used often for video and photo shoots. Unfortunately,
there are no words to truly describe the Reach
Falls experience, but visitors are encouraged
to express themselves creatively in Frank Clarke’s
guest book. Who knows, you may see names there
that you recognize!
Say
Hello To: Mr Frank Clarke, who also
operates a small concession stand at the entrance
to the falls, is the unofficial operator of
Reach Falls. For more than thirty years, Mr
Clarke has farmed the land adjacent to the falls
and has employed a small staff to serve as groundsmen,
lifeguards and guides for tourists. Before or
after a visit to the falls, spend a few moments
with Mr. Clarke. He is an incredible character
and a grassroots community activist dedicated
to preserving the virgin rainforest and the
pristine waterfalls from large-scale development.
| Port
Antonio
General
History: Port Antonio is today’s
grown-up playground for mature free spirits.
The old seaside town has long been a favourite
resort for the rich and famous who, attracted
to the seclusion, the sophistication and
the serenity of the place, built elegant
villas in the surrounding areas. Port
Antonio is one of the most accessible
towns in Jamaica. |
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Within the town itself, few places are out of
walking or bicycling distance. From end to end,
graceful old buildings with Jamaican gingerbread
verandas and elaborate fretwork transoms evoke
illusions of grandeur from a time when the banana
trade was at its zenith, and movie stars mingled
effortlessly with the local elite.
Starting
at the market, where visitors are encouraged
to support local craft vendors, a short walk
through the town is a most interesting and revealing
trip. Do stop at the Demontevin Lodge, the Portland
Parish Court House, the ornate and amusing Village
of St George shopping centre, and the old Fort
George (now Titchfield High School). A short
boat ride away is Navy Island, a tiny cay in
the middle of the harbour with a beautiful golden-sand
beach and its own tropical rainforest. On the
hill just behind the town are some sights worth
seeing. The Portland parish church with its
brick entrance tower and tall arched windows
is an impressive structure, while the vistas
from the Bonnie View Hotel are sure to take
your breath away.
A
few kilometres east of the town, the lavish
villas, hotels and private homes of the village
of San San are tucked sensuously away within
lush emerald forests. Here also are the world-famous
Frenchman’s Cove Beach and San San Beach,
together a once highly exclusive enclave of
royalty and the very wealthy, now open (for
a small fee) to all connoisseurs of the idyllic
life and tropical splendour.
Interesting Story: Port Antonio,
the retreat of the rich and famous, has its
share of scandals and tales, based on the lives
of those that live or have lived there. Many
of these stories concern the origins of buildings
in and around town. It seems, perhaps, as if
every building has an elaborate story. The ruins
at Folly, on the promontory of the east harbour,
for instance, are associated with a sad tale
of unrequited love. Further along the road,
residents say the dazzlingly white Trident Castle
is shrouded in the tawdry scandal of a painful
separation, and the Village of St George Shopping
Centre, where eastern European architecture
meets eastern Jamaica has a humorous history.
Residents are always ready to spin and relate
a tale – whether it be true, not so true,
or complete conjecture – so ask around,
and be entertained by the nuances and idiosyncrasies
of a neighbourhood peopled by eccentric personalities
and fascinating celebrities.
Famous For: Rafting on the
Rio Grande is the ultimate vacation treat. The
practice began in the early twentieth century
when flamboyant celebrity, Errol Flynn, noticed
banana farmers from the interior highlands strapping
the much valued fruits to bamboo rafts and floating
them down the river to the wharf at Port Antonio.
Since then, privileged tourists have followed
suit, becoming part of what is certainly one
of the most magical experiences available anywhere
in the world. The trip from the town of Berrydale
in the hills to Rafter’s Rest on the coast,
at times takes two and a half hours, a slow
idyllic meander through rainforests and farmland
on a thirty-foot raft steered expertly by a
local ‘captain’. Along the way,
stop for a cool dip, enjoy a cold beverage,
or stop to chat with singing washerwomen and
giggling children. There’s always a pleasant
surprise along the way, so do indulge your senses
in an afternoon of luxury, and soak up the natural
tropical beauty.
Must See: The Blue Lagoon,
called ‘Blue Hole’ by residents,
is a small, almost land-locked cove, long reputed
to be bottomless. A myriad shades of blue are
surrounded by lush foliage, kept green by hundreds
of tiny, underground mineral springs. The attraction
is certainly one of the most scenic spots in
Jamaica, as well as one of the most romantic
places to enjoy a gourmet meal. Visitors are
permitted to swim in the lagoon, and it is quite
safe, despite the fanciful fables spun by locals
about marine monsters lurking in its depths!
Say
Hello To: Port Antonio is filled with
interesting characters and colourful personalities,
all of whom would be delighted to chat for a
while about… anything! The names are too
many to list, but some that come to mind at
once include Marguerite Guaron, acclaimed journalist,
community activist and ‘Porti’ resident
– a good person to touch base with. She
knows many, many people in the area, and is
familiar with the day-to-day happenings around
town. Sista P, a Rastafarian woman, and Barbara
and Shireen at Mockingbird Hill Hotel also have
the ‘in’ on Port Antonio, and can
put you in touch with tour guides for the surrounding
areas. Barbara runs Gallery Cariacou, which
exhibits fine works by Jamaican and occasionally
international artists. Ask about their outreach
programme, maybe you can contribute to the development
of the community while you holiday!
Links
& Sources:
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