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Negril
Jamaica's
shrine to permissive indulgence, Negril has
metamorphosed from deserted fishing beach to
full-blown resort town in little over two decades.
American hippies first started visiting what
was then a virgin paradise in the 1970s, setting
the tone for today's free-spirited attitude,
but these days, the presence of deliberately
risqué resorts like the infamous Hedonism
II has ensured that Negril is widely perceived
as a place where inhibitions are lost and pleasures
of the flesh rule. The traditional menu of ganja
and reggae draws a young crowd, but the north-coast
resort ethic has muscled in too. All-inclusives
of every ilk pepper the coast and hotels line
every inch of the beach, while hustling has
increased to an irritating degree.
But
Negril shrugs off such minor issues and remains
supremely chilled-out. Pristine miles of sand,
comprehensive watersports facilities, open-air
dancing to first-rate live music, a wide range
of eating and drinking joints, gregarious company,
and the best sunsets on the island are all on
offer here. Many foreigners have stayed on permanently,
blurring the distinctions between tourists and
locals and making for a relaxed, natural interaction
that's a refreshing change from other resorts.
There
are really two Negrils. The West End is the
site of modest cottages and character-filled
local restaurants. The other Negril is on the
East End, along the road from Montego Bay; the
best hotels line this panoramic beachfront.
The town center itself offers little of interest.
Which
One's For you: Negril or Montego Bay?
Negril, especially during the past 2 decades,
has become the most serious touristic competitor
to Montego Bay. These two resorts are markedly
different in what they offer: Despite some new
first-class hotels opening up, Negril is not
anywhere near the same league as Montego Bay
when it comes to posh hostelries.
For
the serious golfer, Montego Bay wins again;
it offers some of the finest courses in the
Caribbean. And for those who view sightseeing
as part of their holiday, Montego Bay offers
the most diversified attractions in Jamaica;
Negril, other than its beaches, is
not blessed with great sights.
What
does Negril offer, then? There is no more laid-back
place in all the Caribbean for sunning by day
and "sinning" when darkness comes.
For those who want to literally hang out, Negril
also offers the only officially sanctioned nude
beach in all Jamaica. Negril is a sensual, fun-loving
Eden where you can find shelter in everything
from a Rastafarian hut to an overcrowded Jacuzzi
where fellow guests might all be naked. If you
like hallucinogenic brownies and 11km-long (6
3/4-mile) beaches but hate fancy French brasseries,
Negril is the place for you.
For
some reason, Negril is also becoming increasingly
attractive as a family destination.
One
caution: Though the temptation
to take a moonlit walk on Negril's beach is
powerful, resist. It's possible you could be
mugged at night, or worse.
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Negril Restaurants
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Charms
of this Region
Spectacular
Sunsets
Enjoy front-row seats as a golden sun sets the
sky ablaze in a breathtaking display of tropical
hues. The next day do it all again – there’s
a new show every evening - same cast, different
colours.
Cliff
diving
Throw caution to the wind and launch yourself
into the warm blue Caribbean. Afterwards, create
a splash back home with your incredible photos
and “big cliff” tales.
Bloody
Bay
Talcum white sand. Warm, clear water. Is there
really more to life?
Inns
Small and intimate, rustic yet well appointed,
Negril has hundreds of places to play, and stay…from
budget bungalows to luxurious suites, there’s
an inn to suit to all tastes…and pockets!
Hair
Braiding
Be ‘Negrilized’ with a fabulous
new do tipped with beads and shells for a true
island look to match your island experience.
Live
Music
Live Reggae…Every night. All night. Jam
and rock to your favourite tunes, at the beach,
on the cliffs – anywhere…in Negril,
there’s always something to make you dance.
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Negril Nightlife
>>
Limitless
Eating Options
You’ll never want for a hearty meal in
Negril. Along the beach or the cliffs, the next
delicious meal is never more than a few steps
away.
The
Seven Mile Beach
Stake out a blanket-sized spot of paradise or
meander along soft foot-friendly white sand.
The beach is lined with funky eateries oozing
ice cold drinks by day and sizzling hot reggae
by night.
Mellow
Vibes
Kick off your shoes and smile with strangers.
Sleep in the sun or play sports for hours. Rediscover
the simple side of life at a casual laidback
pace…anything goes and everyone’s
welcome.
Bike
Rentals
With the sun on your back and the wind in your
hair, you can zip around town, discovering local
haunts and making new friends.
Animal
Hill
General
History: You won't find the community
of Animal Hill on any map of Jamaica, but it
is a real place, with an interesting history
and a warm, caring neighbourly feel. Animal
Hill is not far from Fat Hog Quarter, in the
interior of Hanover, a rural area whose citizens
are primarily small-farmers and cattle rearers.
The name "Animal Hill" was originally
an unkind nickname given to the area intended
to make fun of the people that lived there.
In the early twentieth century there were a
number of families: Hoggs, Mares, Stairs, Lyons,
and Wolfes, living close together within the
small community. Perhaps in defiance of the
mal-intended if amusing nickname, the residents
embraced it, and now, passing through Hanover,
although there are no signs, almost anyone can
direct you there. Of the original families with
animal names, only the Stairs still live in
the area, the others having died or moved away.
Animal Hill is also a primary source of one
of the tastiest varieties of yams grown in Jamaica;
the Lucea Yam, which is the main crop grown
in the area.
Cousin's
Cove
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General
History: Cousin's Cove, a small
inlet along the Hanover coastline, is unknown
to most tourists, but is as important to
Jamaican heritage as it is beautiful. In
the mid-seventeenth century, as part of
the Cromwellian system of land grants for
military service, one John Samuels acquired
a parcel that included the pristine, secluded
cove. |
Samuels, who arrived in the West Indies after
fleeing the law in England, named the cove in
honour of his cousin, Frances, whom he married.
Samuels and his bride found new freedom and
prosperity in the colony, where he built a stately
home and maintained a productive plantation.
Interestingly
enough, archaeological work in the area is not
centred on the great house ruins, but rather
focused on the material evidence of Taino occupation,
which is extremely rare in the western Caribbean
as a result of centuries of colonialism. Recently,
investigations by the University of the West
Indies Archaeology Department revealed a burial
ground and some cave paintings by the Tainos,
the pre-Colombian indigenous people of Jamaica.
At the burial ground, valuable discoveries,
such as the unearthing of the remains of a young
Taino, offer support to the theory that the
Tainos were technologically more advanced than
their distant cousins, the Arawaks of South
America. Since the initial finding, numerous
pottery shards, carvings and paintings have
been discovered, giving the scientists insights
into the lifestyle and traditions of this now
extinct race.
Famous For: Not famous at all,
Cousin's Cove has a small white sand beach,
used primarily by fishermen, but open to all
who choose to stop!
Must See: Pack a lunch, wear
sensible shoes, and go hiking in the small wooded
hills behind the cove. If you make a day of
it, the whole experience of getting there will
be a delightful addition to a true Jamaican
adventure.
Say
Hello To: Ask around for the "Black
Shop" run by Byron. Behind his shop is
a fisherman's beach where many residents sit
and idle away the day after the early morning
catch comes in.
Grange
Hill
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General
History: Grange Hill, in the deep
rural hills of Westmoreland, is a thriving
community and the second largest commercial
centre in the parish. The town is located
in west central Westmoreland, in an area
long used for horse breeding and rearing. |
Even today, a number of notable breeders still
operate horse farms here. Most of the people
in Grange Hill work in agriculture or in tourism,
as the town lies on the fringes of Westmoreland's
sugar belt only about three miles away from
the sugar factory at Frome. With the resort
area of Negril only fifteen minutes drive away,
many others commute to staff the hotels, restaurants
and bars in that town. The people of Grange
Hill, however, maintain the spirit of independence
and self-sufficiency that is characteristic
of country folk in Jamaica; and although most
work for the two large industries, many families
maintain a 'family ground', small farms where
market produce is grown to feed the family and
to supplement the household income.
Interesting Story: The Police
Station in Grange Hill is not called the Grange
Hill Police Station as almost all community
outposts of the Jamaica Constabulary Force are
called. The Morgan's River Police Station, as
it is called, sits in the centre of town, named
for the river that passes close to the community.
The tributary, Morgan’s River, eventually
joins the Cabaritta River flowing into the sea
near Savanna-La-Mar. It was named for the infamous
pirate and Jamaica's first Lieutenant Governor,
Sir Henry Morgan. Incidentally, the area never
took the river’s name and, apart from
the Police Station, nothing else seems to bear
that name.
Famous For: The fertile soil
in Grange Hill has earned the area its island-wide
reputation for producing some of the best crops
available. In addition, the area has been one
of the most recognized horse breeding areas
in Jamaica and even today, one of the best racehorse
breeders in Jamaica still maintains a small
ranch there.
Must See: Down Belle Isle road
just beyond the town centre, there is an impressive
stone mausoleum containing the remains of an
old planter family. Since Grange Hill is a predominantly
pedestrian and bicycle community, a short excursion
to find this monument may be an interesting
experience!
Negril
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General
History: Casual. Carefree. Chill.
Negril doesn’t pretend to be anything
else. It just is that laidback…and
it’s the only place on earth like
it. On one side, the longest continuous
stretch of talcum-soft beach in Jamaica
and, on the other, lofty, rugged cliffs
protruding into the clearest, bluest water
imaginable. |
Endless water sports and other activities if
you want to play, or the sun, palm trees and
isolation if you don’t. With everything
combined, Negril is the tropical paradise that
seems to exist only on television commercials
and travel agent posters, a place where sun-lovers
roll out of bed straight onto the beach, sipping
fresh natural juices and rocking to reggae music
that pulsates in sync with the ocean’s
waves.
The
self-styled ‘Capital of Casual’
is a relatively young town, having blossomed
in the late 1970s following an influx of North
American hedonists and hippies. Attracted to
the easy-going vibe and the naturalistic consciousness
of the small Rastafarian community there, the
word spread, and soon the tiny fishing village
began playing host to hundreds.
Over
the years, visitors to Negril have traditionally
been minimalists seeking pure relaxation, and
higher levels of consciousness. A few times
a year, however, the town comes alive when swarms
of American college students flock to the seven-mile
stretch to soothe their mid-semester stresses.
Then, Negril becomes an international party
zone, where nubile bodies sizzle on the beach
by day and the bars and clubs sizzle by night.
After the Spring Breakers have come and gone,
Negril slips back into its mellow mood. The
routine is almost always the same – after
a day on the beach, an afternoon nap, sunset
on the cliffs, and an easy-going live reggae
band playing at night, its time again for tropical
pleasure seekers to sleep and do it all again
the next day.
In
Negril, life seems to move more slowly, troubles
seem to work themselves out, and stress is as
alien a concept as snow. Maybe the tone of the
town is fixed by its layout – there are
only two roads in Negril, Norman Manley Boulevard,
the ‘beach road’ and West End Road,
the ‘cliff road’. Maybe it’s
set by an old edict that states that no building
may be taller than the tallest coconut tree.
Whichever it is, Negril is, as it always has
been, a shoes-optional, shirt-if-you-must getaway,
a retreat from the ordinary to the spectacular.
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Negril Restaurants
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Interesting Story: Many visitors
to Negril end up afflicted with severe cases
of what locals call ‘negrilitis’.
The condition is certainly not fatal or even
mildly dangerous, causing only a welcome change
in perspective. Most simply put, ‘negrilitis’
is a state of absolute relaxation. It is brought
about by two or more days spent in the town
– whether on the beach or on the cliffs
– and is alleviated only upon departure!
Famous For: Seven miles of
white sand beach. Spectacular sunsets from 30-foot
cliffs. The most mellow, laid-back people in
the world. Live Reggae Music every night. Negril
is famous because it is as close to paradise
as you can get on earth
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Negril Nightlife
>>
Must See: Located as the most
westerly point on the island, the most incredible
sunsets can be watched in Negril daily.
Say
Hi To: All around the world, vacationers
have fallen in love with Negril’s special
charms. One of the best things about Negril
is the fact that the town has maintained its
personalized, intimate character despite the
developments that have boosted it to a top international
tourist destination. Most hotels, restaurants
and bars are owner-operated, and if you strike
up a friendship, more than likely it will be
an enduring one that enriches your Jamaican
experience. In Negril, say hello to everyone
you meet – in this town you never know
who will end up being a life-long friend!
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Book your hotel
in Jamaica >>
Petersfield
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General
History: In the heart of the sugar
producing regions of central Westmoreland
is the community of Petersfield, a no frills
one-street rural town that is home to many
of the workers of the Frome Sugar Estate.
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Petersfield
is one of the older townships on the island;
in fact, it was incorporated as early as the
late seventeenth century as a dormitory community
for estate workers on the nearby Roaring River
Estate. One Peter Beckford, for whom the town
is named, owned the Roaring River Estate at
the time. The Beckford family arrived in Jamaica
shortly after the restoration of King Charles
in England, and over time, they built one of
the largest fortunes in the West Indies.
Some
will argue that not much has changed in Petersfield
since the seventeenth century, probably because
the pace of life here is much slower than most
places in Jamaica. During the day the street
is virtually empty, and only on weekends does
the town display any bustle at all! The people
of Petersfield, however, maintain a sense of
pride in the fact that theirs is a quiet, respectful
community, probably because as one young man
replied when asked what the most outstanding
thing about his town was, "decent people
live here."
A
few kilometres away from the centre of town
is one of the most stunning attractions in Jamaica,
the Roaring River and Roaring River Cave. Named
for the loud, seemingly untraceable echoing
flow of the subterranean parts of the river,
the Roaring River is the most important source
of water in central Westmoreland and the Georges
plain since it provides the parish capital Savannah-La-Mar
and other towns with their water supply.
Interesting Story: The main
street through the town of Petersfield stretches
over a mile long, and at one end is home to
a Community Health Centre, and has at the other
end the town cemetery. Maybe that is a coincidence…
Famous For: The Roaring River
is a marvellous wonder hidden deep in the Westmoreland
cane country. The river is a subterranean channel
that runs for miles underground before appearing,
almost miraculously at a spot near to Petersfield.
Lush green vegetation abounds, and water lilies
glide gently along the waters surface, destined
nowhere in particular. Just beyond the emergence
point of the river, almost carved into the cliff
is the mouth of the Roaring River Cave, a series
of subterranean limestone caverns with a small
mineral spring inside. Visitors cannot enter
the caves without the guidance of a member of
the Roaring River Citizens Association, a local
community group that maintains the attraction
through the contributions for organized tours.
Must See: Just outside the
Roaring River cave is a deep freshwater sinkhole,
which residents of the area will tell you is
bottomless. Swimming is permitted here, and
the water is crisply refreshing and remarkably
pure. There is another blue hole further up
the road, set within a calmingly landscaped
private garden, where visitors are welcome for
a small contribution.
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& Sources:
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