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Jamaica's
second largest city, MONTEGO BAY nestles between
the gently sloping Bogue, Kempshot and Salem
hills, and extends some ten miles from the haunts
of the suburban rich in Reading at its western
edge to the plush villa developments and resort
hotels of Ironshore and Rose Hall to the east.
It's made up of two distinct parts: the main
tourist strip Gloucester Avenue (rechristened
by the marketing men as the "Hip Strip"),
and the city proper, universally referred to
as "downtown" – a split so sharp
that most tourists never venture further than
the dividing roundabout.
The
"Hip Strip" wouldn't exist were it
not for Montego Bay's prize asset: a dazzling
bay with miles of coral reef (now designated
a marine park) and some beautiful beaches. Much
of the coastline has been snapped up by the
hotels, but there are three main public beaches
along the length of Gloucester Avenue, all with
showers, changing rooms, snack outlets and watersports
concessions and a minimal entrance fee.
If
you fancy a quieter day by the sea, you can
head east of town to Ironshore, where the Caribbean
Beach Park (Tues–Thurs 9am–6pm,
Fri–Sun 9am–8pm; J$100) has a pretty
swathe of white sand that's usually more or
less deserted. There are changing facilities
and showers, and a restaurant and bar; the huge
grassy space out front is often used for stageshows.
Shared taxis run here from Gloucester Avenue
(J$40).
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Book your hotel
in Jamaica >>
Charms
of this Region
Great
Houses
If walls could talk these stately old homes
would share great tales of witches and rebellion,
ruin and triumph!
Golf
With five world championship courses, Mobay
is a cut above par. Hit a few with breathtaking
mountain vistas or the turquoise Caribbean,
creating the backdrop for an exciting round.
Historic
Falmouth
Journey into the Nineteenth Century and tour
the elegant town homes of the plantation era
in one of Jamaica’s best-preserved historic
towns.
Glistening
Waters
Watch mystical waters illuminate a tropical
night. Hailed as the brightest in the world,
Glistening Waters’ lagoon ignites with
each touch…don’t miss this Jamaican
wonder.
Cockpit
Country
Legends abound, this vast limestone forest teems
with exotic flora and fauna. Explore the hidden
caves, trails and waterfalls of Jamaica’s
most wild and untouched region.
Hip
Strip
Day & Night, MoBay’s happening hip
strip has something for you – great beaches,
fine food, trendy bars and a non-stop party
vibe that sizzles year round.
Duty
Free Shopping
Find your own treasure among the exquisite collections
of Montego Bay’s vast Duty free world.
Reggae
Sumfest
Every summer, the World’s Greatest Reggae
Festival brings thousands of music lovers to
experience once-in-a-lifetime performances by
reggae’s top artistes.
Martha
Brae Rafting
Experience the magic of gliding through miles
and miles of this emerald green forest on your
own bamboo raft. It’s sure to enchant
you into falling in love all over again.
Doctors
Cave Beach
Sun-splashed shores awash with crystal-clear
water beckon. Give in to your desire…
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More to do in
Montego Bay >>
Martha
Brae
 |
General
History: The town of Martha Brae,
called Rio Matibereon by the Spanish was
originally an early Spanish settlement built
on the banks of the Martha Brae River. The
river is said to be haunted by the spirit
of the woman for whom it was named. Martha
Brae, it is alleged, was a Taino girl who
was the only person to know the location
of a secret gold mine. |
The Spanish tortured her relentlessly until
she agreed to lead them to the mine, but in
defiance she called on her supernatural powers
to overcome her captors. To defend herself and
her secret, she created a rainstorm, which shifted
the course of the river and swelled its banks,
drowning her and her extraordinary secret. At
the same time, the waters blocked the entrance
to the mine, sealing inside whatever may have
been hidden there.
It
is unlikely that such a mine ever truly existed,
but over the years the river has proven itself
to be worth its length in any precious metal.
The Martha Brae has supplied the town of Falmouth
and indeed much of agricultural Trelawny with
water since the Falmouth Water Company introduced
piped water to Falmouth in 1798. The river rises
at Windsor Cave in the Cockpit Country, and
meanders slowly through the Trelawny countryside
for over thirty-two kilometres, watering acres
of sugar cane, citrus groves and forests on
its way to the sea. The town, located slightly
inland from the harbour-side town of Rock, though
it was the first capital of the parish of Trelawny,
never really equalled the stature or importance
of its counterpart, Falmouth.
In its brief heyday, Martha Brae was a strategically
placed town; connected directly to a constant
supply of fresh water and far enough inland
to offer protection from potential invaders,
but with convenient access to the seaport via
the river. Eventually, however, access from
the port and harbour at Rock became impossible
because of the river silting, and the harbour
and town were abandoned as parish capital in
favour of Falmouth to the west.
Today,
very little remains of the original town to
indicate that it once was a significant centre,
but the river has not diminished in importance.
The Martha Brae still supplies most of Trelawny’s
water supply, and is a vital source of income
for rafters, fishermen and countless others
who live on its banks.
Famous For: Rafting down the
Martha Brae River is certainly an experience
not to be missed. The three-mile journey on
bamboo rafts is a relaxing and soothing ride,
meandering through a scenic, lush rainforest.
River rafting is a very safe and laid-back activity
in Jamaica; there are no dangerous animals in
the water, and rarely does the river move fast
enough to have the entire journey last less
than 45 minutes!
Must See: Almost every afternoon,
guests are treated to Mento, the traditional
Jamaican music, by a small troupe of musicians
based at the Martha Brae Rafter's rest. Before
embarking on a raft with one of the experienced
'captains', do enjoy a cold fruit punch or rum
punch at the hospitality area and allow yourself
to be entertained by the tropical sounds of
the band.
Albert
Town
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General
History: Named for Prince Albert,
consort of Queen Victoria, Albert Town
is the largest town in southeastern Trelawny,
an area dotted with small villages, rural
communities and agricultural districts.
Located on the outskirts of the Cockpit
Country, much of the area’s beauty
lies not in the small busy town centre,
but just outside the town, in the cool
hills and valleys covered with exotic
tropical flora, intriguing inter-connected
limestone caves and numerous underground
rivers and waterfalls. |
Albert
Town is truly a bird-watcher's paradise, as
dozens of species endemic to Jamaica and to
the Cockpit Country pass overhead with startling
regularity. On any given day, observers will
notice wild yellow and black-billed parrots,
yellow-billed amazons, and flocks of 'Doctor
Birds,' a species of hummingbird indigenous
to Jamaica.
As
the central town in an area of Jamaica that
produces about 50% of all the yams exported
by the country, Albert Town is the home of the
annual Trelawny Yam Festival. In the week leading
up to Easter Monday each year, the town comes
alive when visitors from all over the island
and farmers from all over Trelawny come together
for a week of street parades, exhibitions, and
a variety of competitions. The yam festival
culminates on Monday with the Yam Farmers’
Competition, in which yams are judged according
to their quality, weight, size and shape. The
week-long celebration and exposition have done
much to generate excitement and interest in
yam, a key component in the average Jamaican’s
diet.
In
recent times, Albert Town and its surrounding
communities have struggled to maintain their
agricultural way of life, faced with falling
yam prices, environmental degradation and urban
drift. In light of these problems, the South
Trelawny Environmental Agency (STEA) was formed
by collaboration between local interests, government
and several non-profit development agencies.
The outcome of the STEA's efforts is encouraging;
the most impressive and noticeable impact being
made in the area of soil conservation. Researchers
estimate that since the agency began exposing
farmers to methods of cultivation that conserve
topsoil, about 60 tonnes of topsoil have been
saved in those areas.
The
soil conservation project is only one of many
promoted by the STEA, which generally focuses
on generating environmental awareness within
the various communities, and with developing
Eco-tourism Projects to provide eco-friendly
and sustainable income-generating alternatives
for residents. On account of the STEA's development
and training work in the area, Albert Town is
now an excellent base from which to explore
the Cockpit Country and environs, and the STEA
will assist visitors in planning and executing
most bird-watching, camping, hiking and caving
trips.
Famous
For: YAM! A staple in the Jamaican diet, the
yam is an edible tuber originally brought to
Jamaica from West Africa by slaves transported
across the Atlantic Ocean. Today there are no
less than ten varieties in cultivation in Jamaica,
including the common “afu” or yellow
yam, the coarse white “Negro” yam,
“renta”, “mozella” and
the soft white Lucea yam. Yams are grown mainly
on the western side of the island, predominantly
in the hilly interior of Trelawny, Hanover,
Westmoreland and St. James. The tubers grow
underground covered by “hills”,
raised mounds of soil around the yam plant with
long sticks stuck in the centre for the vines
to climb on. In and around Albert Town, afu
yam is king, and yam, in any form is available
all times of the year – in copious quantities
for cooking in every manner possible.
Must
See: Albert Town, on the edge of the
Cockpit Country, is riddled with many underground
springs and cave systems that extend beneath
the hills and valleys. Some of the most scenic
caves accessible to visitors are located in
southeast Trelawny, in very close proximity
to Albert Town. The Rock Spring Caves and the
Quashie River Sink Caves, each no more than
fifteen minutes drive from the town centre,
offer two of the most captivating caving experiences
in Jamaica, with mazes, secret chambers and
waterfalls within the various limestone rock
formations.
Say
Hello To: Donovan Haughton is a member
of the STEA and a tour guide based in the STEA
Albert Town office. He is an amazing person
with a wealth of information at his fingertips
and a refreshingly positive attitude towards
life. Donovan has lived in Trelawny for most
of his life, and so can assist with almost any
tour and accommodation requests for the Albert
Town area.
Clark's
Town
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General
History: Clark’s Town is
located in the heart of the Trelawny sugar
belt, and is a busy rural town with an interesting
history. After the emancipation of slaves
in Jamaica in the mid 19th century, the
owner of the Swandswick Estate, Mr G.M.
Clarke donated a thirty-acre tract of land
on the edge of his estate to be used for
the development of a “Free Village”. |
The village at the time was structured in the
traditional free village style, with a centrally
located church and the houses of mainly sugar
estate workers. This was not the typical free
village, however, since the traditional free
villages rose out of land acquired and developed
by a coalition of missionaries and emancipated
slaves. Unlike the others, Clark’s Town
was built by an estate owner, perhaps with the
intention of keeping the labourers on the plantation.
Currently
there is a debate as to whether the church was
originally Baptist or Anglican, as that fact
would give further insight into the history
of the town. Despite it all, the town stayed
within its 1843 boundaries for almost a century,
surrounded by sugar estate lands. Only in the
past fifty years has the town been allowed to
grow, and today it is no longer a small village
but a bustling transportation hub and with an
energetic populace. St. Michael’s Chapel,
the church around which the village was built,
is still standing, and is a beautiful structure
set against a background of miles of green cane-fields.
Famous
For: Gold Label Rum is probably the
best-known product from the Clark's Town area.
Gold Label is produced and distilled at the
Long Pond Sugar Factory, a ten-minute drive
from the centre of town.
Must
See: The quaint and charming St. Michael’s
Chapel was at one time was the tallest building
in the entire area. Back then, in a village
surrounded by miles and miles of nothing but
sugar cane, a small stone building standing
quietly in a sea of wind-rustled green, must
indeed have been a spectacular sight.
Cockpit
Country
 |
General
History: Often regarded as Jamaica's
most inhospitable region, the Cockpit Country
is a hilly and dense area with limestone
denudations traversing three parishes and
covering over 500 square miles. The so-called
“cockpits” are caused because
limestone, the predominant soil in the area,
does not retain water. |
Rainwater
therefore, percolates downward through cracks
and fissures, creating in time a landscape of
pits and valleys. Below the surface of the Cockpit
Country are hundreds of rivers, streams and
caves, providing some of the best spelunking
opportunities in the Caribbean. Most of the
Cockpit Country was a stronghold of the Maroons
from the eighteenth century, when attacks by
the British forced ex-slaves to use the harsh
terrain to their advantage. The Cockpit Country
is still home to one of the most important Maroon
communities in the island, the town of Accompong
in the parish of St. Elizabeth.
Famous
For: The Cockpit Country has the highest
diversity of plants and animals anywhere on
the island. It is a goldmine for birdwatchers,
plant lovers and scientists with a sophisticated
knowledge of the various species and a determination
to withstand the humidity, the mosquitoes and
the other harsh physical conditions that have
kept the region free of large scale human settlement
for centuries.
Must
See: Clark's Town is the last major
town in the northern Cockpit Country, but there
is a little used road that runs from the town
through the western edge of the Cockpits ending
in the Albert Town area. This is an exquisitely
scenic drive, as the road winds through the
tiny communities of Kinloss and Barbeque Bottom,
cutting through some of the most remarkable
geological formation in Jamaica. The road is
rarely used, and there are patches that run
through completely uninhabited areas. Along
the way are some of the most remarkable vistas,
and if, instead of driving, you walk the length
of the road, you will be sure to see many rare
animals and plants, including hundreds of orchids
growing wild on the sides of the hills.
Duncans
 |
General
History: The residents of Duncans,
Trelawny describe their hometown as a quiet,
humble place where everyone knows each other's
name and people "live good" together.
This small, clean town in rural Trelawny
was named after its founder Patrick Duncans
and dates back to the late 1700s. |
Since then, it has produced many outstanding
personalities: Harry Belafonte, world renowned
folk singer, actor and civil rights activist
was born here; William Knibb, the fiery Baptist
preacher who lead the nation's struggle for
the abolition of slavery is buried close to
the church which he founded; and Diego Columbus,
explorer and son of Jamaica's first tourist,
Christopher Columbus, is also buried here.
The real charm of this community, however, rests
not in who was here, but in who is here –
the people of Duncans are pleasant, easygoing
and welcoming of strangers and tourists.
If
truth be told, there is not much to do in Duncans,
and it is, in fact, the doing nothing that may
make the visit worthwhile. In the centre of
town is a large clock tower, and around the
town square are a number of shops and roadside
vendors. Here you can find just about any goods
or services from the barber to the tailor to
the local supermarket and haberdashery. Further
down the road are a number of pubs that are
frequented by locals and visitors alike.
In
Duncans you will also find Silver Sands Estate,
a world famous exclusive beachside resort community
with villas available for rental or leasing,
and a beach that some insist is the best in
Jamaica. The beach is a hit among wind surfers
with equipment available for rent nearby.
Located
along the highway on the north coast between
Falmouth and Rio Bueno, Duncans is an ideal
place to be based if one decides to explore
the parish of Trelawny, for the main road connecting
Jamaica’s inland towns begins at the clock
tower in the centre Duncans. Many of the historic
sugar estates and Great Houses of the parish
are to be found just to the south of the town,
and there is a tour company that will arrange
excursions from Duncans to a wide selection
of attractions.
Famous
For: Some have described the beach
at Silver Sands as the best strip of beach in
Jamaica, and that may very well be true, given
the reef-protected bay with its powdery white
sand. Most of the beach is private property,
available only to those who rent or own villas
on the Silver Sands Estate, however, it extends
westwards too, and there is a similarly spectacular
public beach called Fisherman's Beach just to
the west of Silver Sands. Most of the locals
use this beach, which has a pleasant laid-back
vibe and has attracted not only fishermen, but
also a number of artists, craft workers and
cooks, who all help to make a visit memorable.
Must
See: Stewart Castle, once a magnificent
and stately mansion, is located to the west
of Duncans. The house, which belonged to a wealthy
planter by the name of James Stewart is now
in ruins, but still exudes an air of grace and
grandeur, and is an excellent place to stop
by for a picnic, or just to explore and photograph.
Say
Hello To: Fisherman's Beach has a small
but lively arts and craft community. If you
happen to go there for an afternoon, do stop
by the stall of the eccentric and celebrated
folk art carver Mr. Walton Spence, who offers
his work for sale, but gives his solid words
of wisdom for no charge at all.
Falmouth
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General
History: For the architecture or
heritage buff, the coastal town of Falmouth
in Trelawny is a virtual goldmine. In the
late 1700s, when sugar was ‘King’
and the profits from the sweet gold made
the fortunes of men, families and nations,
Falmouth was an elegant centre of commerce.
Today, the bustling, tight-knit town is
but a shadow of its former self with hues
of its past opulence and majesty. |
A
sugar boom in Trelawny led directly to the creation
of Falmouth. It began during the mid-1700s,
after a peace treaty between the British colonists
and the Maroons, the independent guerrilla rebels
of the hills, allowed sugar estates to be run
without the threat of invasion. The high sucrose
content of the land, naturally irrigated by
the many springs flowing from the nearby Cockpit
Country, lured more and more planters to the
area, and by 1773, when Trelawny was made its
own parish, there were over eighty sugar plantations
in operation.
Falmouth,
named for the birthplace of the then governor,
Sir William Trelawny, started as the brainchild
of Edward Moulton Barrett, the great-grandfather
of the famous poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning.
Barrett, a wealthy planter and merchant at the
time, laid out the plans for the development
of the town on a piece of property he owned,
then called Palmetto Point; at the time it was
the only planned urban centre on the island.
By 1793 there were close to 150 palatial residences,
some the townhouses of planters from adjoining
districts, others the fashionable two-storey
homes above the shops of merchants who dominated
the portside economy. There were also the more
humble dwellings of artisans, servants and slaves
who formed the backbone of the economy.
In
its heyday, Falmouth was considered to be the
most cosmopolitan city in the western world,
the ‘Paris of the Indies’. The town
had five newspapers, an active literary and
fine arts society and – arguably its most
distinctive attribute – fresh running
water pumped from the Martha Brae River and
piped from a reservoir in the centre of town
into homes and other buildings. It was also
home to a vast number of merchant shops and
traders selling slaves, sugar, rum, fine furniture
and logwood as well as the Albert George Market,
the largest and most popular coastal market
at the time.
Since
those times, Falmouth has maintained a long
and distinguished reputation as a centre for
commerce, both in the formal and informal sectors.
Today the market is still one of the largest
and most attended – especially on Wednesdays
– when traders from all over the island
congregate on the streets for ‘Bend-down
market’. On Wednesdays, consumers can
purchase all sorts of foodstuff, haberdashery
and home items at some of the best prices available
on the north coast.
In
the late 1800s, following the demise of sugar
as a globally lucrative agricultural product,
Falmouth began a steady decline in importance,
and soon the harbour which once welcomed close
to thirty ships in one day, saw fewer than that
in a month.
Now
the sugar money is long gone, but many of the
splendid original buildings remain, some in
ruins, others masterfully restored to their
former glory. In recognition of its rich historical
legacy, Falmouth has been declared a World Heritage
Site by the United Nations, and is a Jamaican
National Monument. Slowly, the town is being
restored, one building at a time, and most residents
expect that in the near future their town will
once again be the most fashionable and cosmopolitan
city in the Caribbean. Until such time, Falmouth
will continue to be a centre of commerce on
the north coast, and certainly deserving of
the attention it periodically receives. The
town still exudes a spirit of grandeur, and
a walk through town reveals charm and grace
where once was wealth and prosperity.
Interesting
Story: Most of the town of Falmouth
lies on land below sea level, and shortly after
the town was built, concerns about the purity
of the water supply were raised, particularly
because most residents accessed their water
from wells dug to the same level as pit latrines.
In 1798 a committee, formed to explore solutions
to the water problem, devised what was then
a marvellous breakthrough. The Falmouth Water
Company, the group instituted to install and
manage the works, built a Persian Water Wheel
on the nearby Martha Brae River. The water wheel
scooped up hundreds of gallons of water, transferring
it via metal pipes to a reservoir in the centre
of the town square. From the reservoir, water
was piped into buildings around town. There
was even a connection to a pump on the dockyard
so that ships could replenish their fresh water
supplies without crewmembers leaving the wharf!
The
development of the Falmouth water supply system
is just one indicator of the wealth and grandeur
of the town. In the eighteenth century few cities
around the world had piped water, even the much
larger cities in North America like New York
City were behind the times in this area.
Famous
For: The town of Falmouth certainly
contains the largest collection of Georgian
style buildings in the country; some estimates,
however, claim this collection is also the largest
in the West Indies! The number aside, some of
the finest representations of buildings from
the period are to be found here, and each of
these structures tells a unique tale of different
people's lifestyles and of the economic and
social significance of the town better than
any written record could represent.
Over
the years, some of these very telling structures
have fallen into disrepair, but slowly this
trend is changing. A committee of professionals,
academics and concerned citizens formed the
Falmouth Restoration Corporation, and this small
group has been managing and overseeing the restoration
process of buildings around town, on a case-by-case
basis.
Perhaps
the most encouraging trend in the restoration
of the town is the fact that not only are large
public buildings and the grand stately homes
of the merchant and planter classes being restored,
but the small private homes of members of the
working classes, of the emancipated slaves and
skilled artisans. For now, and quite possibly
for a long time to come, the restoration of
Falmouth will be a work-in-progress, but over
time and following the established trend, the
town will once again be the vibrant, graceful
urban centre it was once.
Must
See: Although the best way to capture
the essence of Falmouth is to do a complete
walking tour, there are some buildings that
stand out, even more so after restoration. One
such building is the Baptist Manse on Market
Street near the waterfront, an imposing stone
structure with a stately wooden staircase. Reputed
to have housed the first Masonic Temple in Jamaica,
this building has changed hands many times.
Perhaps, its most notable owner was Revd. William
Knibb, famous Baptist preacher and abolitionist.
Today it is a flagship structure in the town’s
restoration. The completed project will not
only contribute to the physical renewal of the
town, but also to the cultural revival of the
community. The lower level of the building will
house a community-based initiative, while the
upper level will be an art gallery displaying
the work of local artists.
Say
Hello To: Say hello to Dr. Jim Parrent,
Executive Director of the Falmouth Heritage
Renewal is the man in town to speak to. Under
his leadership the restoration of many homes
and buildings in the town has been undertaken
and completed, and that is just a tiny part
of his contribution to the town!
Depending
on his schedule, he may guide you on a walking
tour of Falmouth, or put you in touch with a
trained guide attached to the Jamaica Heritage
Trail, a community-based agency designed to
stimulate interest in the heritage and architectural
legacy of the town. Ask anyone around town where
to find him, and if someone does not recognize
the name, ask for "the white man who fixes
the houses around town". You'll find him.
Good
Hope
 |
General
History: Settled in 1774 by Colonel
Thomas Williams Jr., Good Hope began as
a sugar estate and grew to a village to
support the workers after Emancipation.
In the eighteenth century the Good Hope
Estate belonged to John Tharpe, then the
largest land and slave owner in Jamaica.
|
Aside
from Good Hope, Windsor Estate, the extensive
Long Pond Estate and a number of other smaller
sugar plantations in Trelawny belonged to Tharpe,
who had as many as 3000 slaves to run the plantations.
In addition, Tharpe owned much of the prime
waterfront property in Falmouth, and his townhouse,
now the Falmouth branch of the government tax
office, is still one of the most elegant structures
in the town.
The
small village has some of the best examples
of Georgian architecture in the island, and
the churchyard has many old and interesting
tombstones. On the estate, the Great House,
the Slave Hospital, the Counting House and parts
of the sugar mill aqueducts and water wheel
are still standing, and generally, Good Hope
is regarded as having the largest number of
well-preserved plantation buildings on the island.
Ideally
positioned to take advantage of the tropical
breezes and to observe the activities on the
estate, the Great House veranda offers a commanding
view of the paw-paw and sugar cane laden Queen
of Spain Valley, and spectacular vistas of the
northern Cockpit Country. At dawn, the Cockpit
Country comes alive, and floating gently on
the morning mists are the energetic songs of
wild birds.
The
Great House has many antique pieces, but of
particular interest is a very unusual bathtub,
said to be the first of its kind in Jamaica.
The tub itself is inlaid with tiles over a lead
mould, and was provided with hot water from
a copper water heater just outside the room.
Other antiques are scattered through the house,
blending with more modern pieces to shape an
elegant country home. Unfortunately, tours and
walk-in visits are not available since the Good
Hope Estate is privately owned and the Great
House, Counting House and Carriage House have
all been refurbished as discrete completely
staffed ultra-luxury villas.
Interesting
Story: John Tharpe, an Englishman who
came to the West Indies to seek his fortune,
was one of the most successful of his kind -
he actually did make a fortune, and lived like
a king in some of the most elegant homes on
the island. Tharpe made his money from slave
trading, and slowly invested and purchased real
estate and slaves till he became the largest
slave owner on the island, with thousands of
slaves working the soil of about 10 000 acres
of plantation lands.
Although
he had a choice of four sons from which to name
an heir, all four displeased him, and upon his
death in 1804, he named his grandson sole executor
of his massive holdings. His grandson, however,
was rather feeble-minded, but then, as is the
case now, a feeble-minded man with an immense
fortune was just as desirable as a smart man
with an immense fortune! Several of the colony's
most eligible young ladies vied for his attention,
and eventually a marriage to a woman of titled
lineage was arranged.
Unfortunately,
it is said that poor young Tharpe was overwhelmed
by the situation, and on his wedding night he
became hysterical and practically lost his mind.
He was never the same, and although he lived
to nearly ninety years old, he never had much
to do with the operation of the estates. His
sad state plunged the family into a hotly contested
battle over his grandfather's "dead-lef",
and over the years the various properties fell
into disrepair and decline.
Famous
For: Good Hope is more than just an
estate home; it is, as it probably was in the
eighteenth century, a model for elegant country
living. The property is now a part of Chris
Blackwell's Island Trading Group, and has retained
its colonial stature and appeal even through
its transformation into a luxurious villa complex
with all the modern conveniences.
Must
See: Few words actually manage to describe
a sunrise at Good Hope with any accuracy. Breathtaking,
spectacular and awe-inspiring come to mind,
but even those cannot truly express the wonder
evoked from the experience. The sunrise is certainly
a must-see…
Say
Hello To: Many regard David Pinto,
master potter, as one of Jamaica's most promising
young artists. His work, which has been displayed
in the exhibitions of some of the most prestigious
galleries around the world, is dynamic and refreshingly
inventive. It is reflective of his warm and
affable personality. Back in Jamaica after living
and working abroad for a number of years, Pinto
has established his studio inside one of the
former plantation buildings on the Good Hope
Estate, where he creates his pieces and occasionally
hosts international workshops.
Rock
General
History: Once a major shipping port
for Trelawny’s thriving banana and sugar
industries, Rock was the sister town to Martha
Brae in the eighteenth century when that town
was the parish capital. Located within the Martha
Brae delta, at the point where the river enters
the Caribbean Sea, Rock lies on the edge of
the Luminous Lagoon, an enthralling body of
water that glistens and glows when the microscopic
organisms that live on the surface of the water
are disturbed.
In
the eighteenth century at the Luminous Lagoon
there was home a wharf used by small ships carrying
goods from larger vessels docked in the harbour.
These small ships would carry the bulk of imported
goods inland, up the river to Martha Brae and
carry sugar and other produce back down the
river. Eventually, when Falmouth replaced Martha
Brae as the capital, Rock began its decline
in importance, and has since become a sleepy
fishing village on the outskirts of the increasingly
popular Trelawny Beach resort area.
Over
the years, continuous deposits of silt washing
down the river have made the bay extremely shallow,
and today the whole area is no more than eight
feet deep at its deepest point. Too shallow
to host any but small private luxury craft,
Rock today is known mainly as the home of the
Glistening Waters Marina and Restaurant, and
the lagoon has become a major night-time tourist
attraction.
A
short distance inland from the lagoon is the
Reggae To Wear factory, an authentic world-famous
Jamaican resort couture line. Reggae To Wear
offers regular tours of their factory, where
cloth used in production is hand printed and
assembled, so guests can be part of a unique
and fashionable Jamaican experience!
Famous
For: The Luminous Lagoon is certainly
one of the most spectacular naturally occurring
phenomena in Jamaica. At night, the water seems
to sparkle and glisten when disturbed, as millions
of microscopic dinoflagellates called pyridium
Bahamene that live on the surface of the water
produce an eerie glow, reflecting the outlines
of fish and other objects in the water. This
lagoon is said to be the largest and most brilliant
of only three in the Caribbean, and then one
of only a handful on the planet, a small fact
that continually attracts and awes visitors
and scientists from around the world.
Must
See: Reggae To Wear, a internationally
acclaimed Jamaican-made resort couture line
is produced in Rock. The Reggae To Wear factory,
where fabrics are hand printed and garments
are assembled daily, is open for tours, and
pieces from the line make for exciting one-of-a-kind
souvenirs and gifts.
Say
Hello To: Say hello to Jerry, who operates
a tour of the Luminous Lagoon from the Glistening
Waters Marina, is a most interesting character.
On his tours, he gives an extensive account
of why the water sparkles, and as he boasts
to all his customers, "I have never lost
a client in this harbour..." Jerry is also
working on his singing career, and will, upon
request, perform covers of his favourite Bob
Marley tunes. Feel free to sing along, even
if you don’t know the words!
Sandy
Bay
 |
General
History: The town of Sandy Bay
was created in the immediate post-emancipation
period when Baptist Missionary Thomas Burchell
purchased land for the creation of a 'free
village' for former slaves. |
The
original Sandy Bay Baptist Church still stands,
complete with a plaque on the wall commemorating
the creation of the village. Sandy Bay, a few
kilometres west of Montego Bay, Jamaica's second
city, is surprisingly undeveloped, given its
proximity to the large bustling resort town.
To explore the undeveloped beauty of the region,
contact Chukka Blue, where visitors can be part
of a horseback riding tour of the area. The
ride involves a beach stop, a picturesque trail
by the seaside on the sandy beach the village
is named for. Near to the actual village is
the Tryall Golf and Beach Club, a luxury resort
that has hosted the Johnny Walker World Championship
Tournament a number of times.
Famous
For: For many years, Lollipop on the
Beach has been a necessary stop on the way from
Montego Bay to Lucea or Negril. 'Lollipop' is
a beach club that converts to the most happening
nightlife spot in Hanover on a regular basis,
when live bands and other entertainers are brought
in to give concerts. Other times, the drinks
are cold, the sea is warm and the people are
friendly - good enough reasons to spend time
there!
Must
See: A former 2000-acre sugar and coconut
plantation, Tryall Estate is now mostly owned
by the Tryall Hotel and Golf Club. The grounds
still contain a sugar mill, which is over 170
years old, and a 200-year-old waterwheel, which
is operated by a small nearby stream.
Stewart
Town
 |
General
History: Stewart Town, tucked away
in the Dry Harbour Mountain range that spans
St. Ann and parts of Trelawny, is a small
rural village whose citizens depend almost
exclusively on agriculture as their primary
source of income. |
Although
Stewart Town seems like one of the many "Free
Villages" that dot the Jamaican countryside,
the village predates the post-emancipation period,
when the majority of such villages were formed.
In 1812, following the outbreak of war between
Britain and the newly independent colonies of
North America, shipping lines to the West Indian
colonies from both the British and the Americans
were disrupted. In order to offset the rampant
shortages, fifty acres of land high in the mountains
were put aside exclusively for the cultivation
of provisions for estates and for lumber.
The
town was named for the then custos of the parish
of Trelawny, James Stewart, who spearheaded
its development as a solution for his constituents.
Many in the parish, partly out of expediency,
welcomed Stewart’s idea, but in reality,
the town’s development was supported because
by the 1800s the Stewart family name was well
respected and trusted within the planter society.
Stewart's father (also James) owned one of the
most lucrative estates in the parish, and as
testament to his wealth and importance built
on of the most impressive great houses on his
plantation near the coast at Duncans. The ruins
of the mansion, Stewart Castle, which was built
with cut-stone and shaped like a fortress complete
with a lookout tower, still exist today, surrounded
by a modern housing development.
Stewart
Town has changed somewhat since the early 1800s,
but by far the most distinctive development
has been the addition of the Westwood Girl's
School in 1891. The school, which has attracted
young ladies from across the island since inception,
is set atop a small hill on the west side of
the town, and is considered by many to be Jamaica's
premier boarding institution for girls.
Interesting
Story: Westwood Girl's School, today
heralded as one of Jamaica's most distinguished
institutions for young women, was founded in
reaction to a clear display of racial prejudice.
In the late 1800s, two nieces of the famous
abolitionist, Reverend William Knibb, formed
a school in Falmouth called the Polly Knibb
School For Ladies Of Colour. In 1876, the Knibbs
enrolled two black girls, one a daughter of
a Jamaican Baptist minister, the other a daughter
of a Presbyterian minister.
Ironically,
the thought that two black girls be admitted
to the School For Ladies Of Colour outraged
the parents of the white pupils, but the situation
was further exacerbated when the Knibb sisters
refused to expel the black girls. In a show
of defiance, the white students withdrew their
enrolment, causing the school to falter and
eventually fail in 1881. Later that year, the
Baptist minister and father of one of the girls
managed, on a trip to England, to secure funding
for the establishment of a new school, and in
1882 the doors were opened to all young ladies,
regardless of race or colour.
Must
See: In the early afternoon, when classes
at Westwood have ended for the day, look for
scores of young ladies filing out of the school
gates in their traditional uniforms, a navy
blue tunic with a white under-blouse and a straw
jippa-joppa hat. Over the years, Westwood has
kept the style and tradition of the uniform,
which is certainly one of the most unique on
the island. Today, despite attracting both ridicule
and admiration, the girls wear their uniform
proudly and neatly, as Westwood continues the
tradition of producing “young women of
moral and good character”.
Say
hi to: In Stewart Town, there are a
number of beautiful Georgian structures. Most
however, fall on the campus of Westwood Girl's
School. Before entering the school grounds,
however, do stop in and ask permission from
the headmistress. Ask at the gate for her office.
If she is not too busy attending to school matters,
she may also share a bit about the history of
the school and the buildings on campus.
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