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Mandeville
Perched
on the Manchester plateau 2000 feet above sea-level,
Mandeville is unlike other rural Jamaican towns:
it is cool, it is clean, and there are no slums.
Thanks to energetic promotion by the Central
and South Coast Tourism Organization, the town
is a magnet for discerning visitors and an excellent
base for exploring the central hills and the
south coast.
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The
parish of Manchester was created in 1814
by the then governor, the Duke of Manchester.
The parish capital, founded in 1816, was
named after his eldest son, Viscount Mandeville,
and was one of four hill stations for
the Army. Once a haven for English gentlefolk
who deemed it the closest thing to home,
it was a prim and rather static place
until the advent of the bauxite industry
in the 1950s. Overnight Mandeville became
a roistering boom town, began to grow
and flourish and has continued to do so
ever since. As a market centre for farmers,
a dormitory town for two large alumina
companies and the first choice of returning
retired Jamaicans, the town enjoys a relatively
stable economic base and offers the pleasures
of rural life with the convenience of
a mini-city.
The
largest of 12 shopping plazas is the Manchester
Shopping Centre on Caledonia Road; there
are cinemas and discos, several first-class
restaurants, a large public library, two
hotels, several guests houses and a golf
club. number of schools and colleges include:
Manchester High School, Bishop Gibson
High School, DeCarteret College, Belair,
St Joseph's Academy, The Church Teachers
Training College and the West Indies College.
In
Mandeville ís benign climate both
temperate and tropical plants flourish:
agapanthus lilies and sweet peas beside
hibiscus and bougainvillea, robust vanda
orchids beneath peach and lychee trees,
begonias and nasturtiums growing wild
on the banksides. Mandeville has one of
the oldest Horticultural Societies in
the world and is famous for its annual
flower show and splendid private gardens
some of which can be toured by appointment.
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Mandeville
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Places
of Interest
KIRKVINE
WORKS
Alumina
Jamaica, a subsidiary of the Alumina Company
of Canada Ltd, (ALCAN), was the first aluminium
company to begin operations in Jamaica. It acquired
its bauxite reserves in the 1940s, began construction
of its Kirkvine plant near Mandeville and its
shipping facility at Port Esquivel near Old
Harbour in late 1950, started mining in 1952
and shipped its first cargo of alumina in January
1953. Subsequently, Kirkvine was expanded and
another plant built at Ewarton to process the
large deposits of bauxite acquired in St Ann.
Ore is mined in open pits using dragline excavators
and front-end loaders, then transported by dump
trucks and cable belt conveyor (at Ewarton)
or aerial ropeway (at Kirkvine) to the plants.
A limestone quarry at Kirkvine supplies the
raw material for the burnt lime used in transforming
bauxite into year alumina. Alcanís own
rolling stock transports alumina via the Jamaica
Railway tracks to their shipping facilities
at Port Esquivel in Clarendon.
Only
a small portion of the land bought by the company
is used for mining at any one time. To utilize
the rest of their holdings Alcanís agricultural
department developed a model livestock (beef
and dairy cattle) and citrus operation on 8,000
acres. They also supervise 4,600 tenant farmers
on another 23,000 acres. In 1978 a joint venture
agreement with the government of Jamaica transformed
Alcan Jamaica into Jamalcan with the government
company, Jamaica Bauxite Mining Ltd, acquiring
7% of Alcanís mining and refining assets
and all bauxite lands. Alcan Jamaica retains
the management of Jamalcan. Alcan has proved
to be the most dependable of the bauxite/alumina
companies operating in Jamaica. It has never
closed, and was first to appoint a Jamaican
as Chief Executive. The current General Manager
is Dr Keith Panton. At the bottom of Shooters
Hill, as you approach Mandeville from the north,
the first thing you see is the Kirkvine factory.
A large mined out area and the red mud lake
are visible to the R as you begin the climb
via Kendal to Mandeville. Alcanís corporate
office flanks the golf course on Brumalia Road.
Their staff Sports club in the residential area
of Ingleside offers badminton, swimming pool
and gymnasium. Use of these facilities can be
arranged by a member. Tours of the factory by
appointment.
ALPART
As
you leave Mandeville at Spur Tree, you will
pass Alpartís corporate offices and see
their Nain factory on the plain below. Alpart
was originally a partnership between Kaiser
Bauxite, Anaconda and Reynolds who during the
1960s pooled technology and land assets and
invested US$200 million in a state of the art
plant which began operations in 1969, but became
a cost nightmare when oil prices skyrocketed
during the 1970s. Anaconda sold out to the other
two partners and by 1985 Alpart had closed.
Subsequently Reynolds sold out to Kaiser and
Norsk Hydro and in 1990 the plant re-opened
under Kaiserís management.
A
9 mile cable belt conveyor built in the early
1980s allows Alpart to mine high quality ore
on the Manchester plateau. The alumina is transported
by private railway from the factory at Nain
to Port Kaiser near Alligator Pond; a port that
was built by Kaiser and originally used to export
bauxite.
Like
other bauxite/alumina companies Alpart has an
extensive land rehabilitation and agricultural
program, run by Alpart Farms, and is also involved
in community work. Perhaps their greatest gift
to the area is water. St Elizabeth is a notoriously
dry parish and Alpart provided water free from
their wells at Nain to surrounding districts.
However, red mud disposal has created problems.
Before Alpart closed in 1985, U.W.I. scientists
had documented the fact that the water table
at Pepper was being polluted by seepage from
the Alpart mudlake. The condition of the aquifer
since the plant re-opened is unclear. Tours
can be arranged by appointment.
MANCHESTER
CLUB
The
oldest country club in the island has seen major
changes since its Golf and Tennis weeks were
the most eagerly awaited social events of the
year. The old clubhouse has been sold to Scotia
Bank Jamaica to be the site of its computer
centre. A new clubhouse complete with tennis
courts is on the other side of the challenging
golf course, the oldest in the Western hemisphere.
Admission can be arranged through your hotel.
WEST
INDIES COLLEGE
This
Seventh Day Adventist complex offering education
from primary to tertiary level enforces a strict
code of conduct, a vegetarian diet, and emphasizes
the dignity of manual labour by requiring all
students to complete a number of hours in the
College bakery, printery, workshops or farm
before graduation.
CHARLTON
MANSION
Mr
Cecil C. Charlton is a retired politician, self-made
millionaire (Charles-Off betting shops), farmer
and philanthropist whose palatial octagonal
home, Huntingdon Summit, is open to the public
by appointment. Charlton served as Mayor of
Mandeville for over 20 years and to some people
will always be Mayor Charlton. The house crowns
a hill on the eastern edge of town, the first
of a growing number of palatial Mandeville residences.
MARSHALLS
PEN
An
eighteenth century great house set in a delightful
garden on a 300 acre cattle property. Once a
farm house and coffee factory owned by the Earl
of Balcarres, Governor of Jamaica 1795 to 1801,
it has been continuously occupied ever since
and is filled with antiques, paintings and curios,
each item with its own fascinating story which
the owners Mr Arthur Sutton and Mr and Mrs Robert
Sutton will relate to you. Tours can be arranged
through Countrystyle Ltd. Birdwatching and hiking
are also available here. Robert Sutton, an ornithologist
and his wife Anne, an environmental scientist,
are both extremely knowledgeable about the island's
wildlife and ecology. Accommodation is also
available by arrangement.
ROXBOROUGH
The
birthplace of Jamaican National Hero, the Rt.
Excellent Norman Manley, founder of the People's
National Party and Premier 1955-1962. The site
is maintained by the Jamaica National Heritage
Trust. The house was destroyed by fire, leaving
only the barbeques used for drying pimento grains
and a terraced garden. There is a stunning view
over the plains of Clarendon. Manley's older
cousin and future political rival Alexander
Bustamante worked on the farm here for a short
time before leaving for a life of adventure
in Cuba, Spain and the U.S. In later years Manley
remembered him as a skilled horseman.
Manley,
a British trained barrister, was a brilliant
advocate. A somewhat austere person, lacking
the charisma of his cousin Busta, Norman Manley
possessed an ironic sense of humour and in his
younger days was an outstanding athlete. His
sophistication and singleminded pursuit of political
independence made him the hero of the emerging
middle class. He married his English born cousin
Edna, an artist in her own right. The couple
lived at Drumblair (then a suburb of the city)
and attracted a circle of Jamaican artists,
writers and scholars. The Drumblair Set has
had a profound impact on politics and art for
almost three decades. Manley's younger son Michael
graduated from Trade Union leader to succeed
his father as President of the PNP and twice
Prime Minister of Jamaica. An official function
marking the national hero's birthday is held
here every.

HIKING
AND HORSEBACK RIDING: at Perth Great
House, a Georgian mansion built in 1760 and
owned by John Nightingale's family for over
100 years. Phone (809) 962-2822.
CUSTOM
BUILT ECO TOURS: When he is not too
busy planning and lobbying for alternative energy
projects for rural districts, Tony Goffe will
plan and conduct eco-tours to cater to special
interests, be it fossiling for agates, hunting
for orchids or exploring the source of rivers.
Phone (809) 962-2149.
MRS
STEPHENSON'S GARDEN: Reputed to be
one of the finest in the island. Tours, conducted
by the horticulturist herself, can be arranged.
FACTORY
TOURS: The High Mountain Coffee and
Chocolate Factory at Williamsfield, the Pickapepper
Sauce Factory at Shooters Hill and the Bammy
Factory in Mandeville can all be toured by appointment.
COUNTRYSTYLE
TOURS: This local company, based at
Astra Hotel and owned by Mandeville's tourism
dynamo Diana MacIntyre-Pike, can introduce you
to all the above. They also have listings of
accommodation options from luxurious villas
with maids and butler to modest bed and breakfast
rooms.
Their
latest project Village Tourism provides an authentic
introduction to the life of a rural Jamaican
village using trained community guides the local
school teacher, postmistress, pastor or shopkeeper,
etc. and allows you to attend or participate
in community events like church harvests, school
fairs, independence celebrations, etc.

| Mandelville
Restaurants |
| Bloomfield
Great House
8
Perth Rd
Phone 876/962-7130
This
is the only restaurant in town that's
viewed as a destination in its own right.
Serving excellent food in an intricately
restored setting of historic interest,
it's a hangout for the town's expatriate
Australians, Brits, Americans, and Scandinavians.
Surrounded by 2 hectares (5 acres) of
landscaping, it's perched on a hilltop
about a .4km ( 1/4 mile) south of the
town's commercial core, in a verdant residential
neighborhood of upscale private homes.
Start off with a drink in the cozy mahogany-trimmed
pub before dining on the rambling veranda
(with views that sweep out over the town),
or a high-ceilinged dining room with colonial-style
trim and moldings. Superb menu items include
lobster ravioli, charbroiled filet mignon
with sherry sauce and crispy onions, plantain-crusted
chicken served with passion-fruit vinaigrette,
and a delicious version of jumbo shrimp
stuffed with jalapeño pepper, wrapped
in bacon, and served with barbecue sauce.
The pastas are house-made.
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International
Chinese Restaurant
117
Manchester Rd
Phone 876/962-1252
This
is a good place if you're seeking some
change-of-pace dining; you can eat well
and inexpensively here. Some of the Chinese
dishes have been given a Jamaican dash
of flavor: a baked seafood medley comes
with shredded coconut. Other dishes could
be served at your favorite hometown Chinese
eatery, such as chicken with cashew nuts.
Try the special fried rice served with
a combination of meats that include lobster,
chicken, beef, and shrimp, all laced together
with flavorful, extra-black soy sauce. |
| The
Den
35
Caledonia Rd
Phone 876/962-3603
One
of Mandeville's more venerated old favorites,
this restaurant is installed in a century-old
setting that was once a family home. You
dine in what were the occupants' former
bedrooms in a setting of wood and wicker
furnishings, with an old rustic feeling.
You can eat inside or outdoors, and sometimes-mostly
on Friday night-there is live music in
the garden, even jazz. The chefs know
their pots and pans, and turn out a savory
cuisine including well-prepared grilled
curry chicken, a steak kabob (with onions,
pineapple, and peppers), and both jerk
chicken and pork. Fish 'n chips appears
often, as does a mix of grilled steak,
chicken, and pork. |
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Mandeville
Information
There
is no Jamaica Tourist Board office in this city.
Information is available from the Central &
South Tourism Committee at the Astra Country
Inn, on the western outskirts (tel. 876/962-9758,
876/376-6176, or 876/450-3443), open daily 9:00
am to 5:00 pm.
- Banks--
A branch of National Commercial Bank (tel.
876/962-2083) can be found at 9 Manchester
Rd.; open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 3pm,
Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm.
- Hospital--
The town's major hospital, Mandeville Hospital,
Hargreaves Avenue (tel. 876/962-2067), is
the best medical center in the Central Highlands
of Jamaica.
- Internet
Access-- The Internet Café
at Manchester Shopping Centre (tel. 876/961-1829)
is the largest in Jamaica, boasting 20 computers
and charging J$200 (US$3.30) per half-hour.
It is open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to
5pm.
- Mail--
The Mandeville Post Office, South Racecourse
(tel. 876/962-3229), is open Monday to Friday
8am to 5pm. To mail packages, it's more efficient
to use Airpak Express, 11 Caledonia Rd. (tel.
876/962-5101). Include "Jamaica, W.I."
in all island addresses. The island has no
zip codes.
- Pharmacy--
The most convenient drugstore is the Caledonia
Mall Pharmacy, Shop G5, Caledonia Road (tel.
876/962-0038), open Monday to Friday 8am to
5:30pm, Saturday 8am to 4pm.
- Safety--
The police station, 8 Parkerson Rd. (tel.
876/962-2250), is on the north side of the
central village green. Of all Jamaica's cities,
Mandeville is the safest; still, take all
the usual precautions.
- Travel
Agencies-- The best one is Sterling
Travel, Caledonia Plaza (tel. 876/962-2203),
open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm.
Links
& Sources:
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